Tindari (Messina)
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The shapes formed by the turquoise blue lagoons on the white sands of Marinello beach near Tindari, in Sicily's Messina region, constantly change, with some locals even laying claim that one resembles the Virgin Mary on occasion. And the view of the lagoons from the Sanctuary of the Madonna that lies on a crag 650 feet above sea level are worth seeing as a tourist if not a pilgrim. The confection of a nineteenth-century church houses the Black Madonna, a Byzantine statue that arrived at what is a former ancient Greco-Roman colony. You can arrive by strolling through the town, or if you have more energy, arrive from the other side by climbing through olive groves that lead to the back of the church, stopping for a rest en route to take in the view.
Founded in 395 BC as Tyndaris, the small city was lauded by Cicero as the ‘nobilissima civitas’, or noble city. It was frequently the scene of ancient battles, no doubt because of its location on a promontory on the northern Sicilian coast lying west of Messina with a view across a bay out to the Tyrrhenian Sea. The ancient city fell into disrepair after its invasion by the Arabs in 836, yet what remains points to its former glory. A short walk down the hill from the Sanctuary leads you to the archaeological park and museum. The site boasts a gymnasium or basilica, a Roman villa with mosaics, what is left of the large sandstone wall that surrounded the city and, best of all, a small Greco-Roman amphitheatre. Not only is the theatre in relatively good condition, sited on a seaward slope it commands spectacular views across the sea and out to the Aeolian Islands volcanic archipelago in the distance. Visitors to Tindari during May, June and July can watch one of the classical dramas put on at the theatre annually. Even if you don’t understand Italian the chance to watch a play at dusk against such a breathtaking backdrop would be a spectacle in itself.
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Teatro dei Due Mari
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