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Kyoto - A Weekend in Japan’s Ancient Capital

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recommended by The Weekender
Kyoto - A Weekend in Japan’s Ancient Capital
  Kyoto, delicate, light. (c) the weekender

Any arrival and stay in Japan for the first time is exhilarating, but rather than fly into the confusion of Tokyo’s Narita Airport, try Kansai instead, gateway to Osaka and the beautiful former capital of ancient Japan, Kyoto.

 

The reason that Kyoto is quite so attractive is that it was spared intensive American bombing during the Second World War, so the original grid system of the old city largely remains, with narrow little streets lined with tiny wooden houses - plus some of the country's most dazzling temples - and where you’ll now find cool bars, exotic markets and the best food in Japan. It means you can walk about without getting lost, take taxis with confidence, and get to understand the public transport.

 

The best times to visit are spring/early summer and August for the spectacular Gozan Fire Festival.

 

Depending on season and fuel charges you can sometimes fly direct with Japan Airlines (08457 747 700; www.jal-europe.com), for as little as £550 return from Europe to Italian architect Renzo Piano’s stunningly modern, airy airport terminal, where trains will whisk you straight to downtown Kyoto every half hour, taking 70 minutes for a fare under £20.

 

OK. WE’RE HERE.

You can't miss Kyoto Station, 16 floors of shimmering glass and endless escalators. It is the city’s most outlandish piece of modern architecture to date and caused a storm when it was built because until its arrival, no building had been built higher than the Buddhist Temples. On the second floor is the city tourist office (+81 75 343 6655), which opens daily 8.30 am - 7 pm to assist you find accommodation, or try online the excellent English-language Kyoto Visitors Guide (www.kyotoguide.com). Keep going to the top floor by a series of outdoor escalators and you’ll find a 360-degree cityscape panorama, with the Kyoto Tower facing you in the foreground.

 

The subway is simple and the buses are cheap - board by the back door and leave by the front. A cheap day pass covers both services. Bike hire is plentiful and equally cheap.

 

STAY WHERE?

Atop Kyoto Station is the Hotel Granvia (+81 75 344 8888; www.granvia-kyoto.co.jp): modern, clean and comfortable with double rooms starting over £100 but they regularly have offers on the website.

 

However make sure you spend at least one night in a Ryokan, the Japanese traditional inn with tatami-mat floors, paper doors, wooden walls and cedar wood baths. Two of the country's top Ryokans happen to face each other on Fuyacho Street: the Hiiragaya (+81 75 221 1136; www.hiiragiya.co.jp) and the Tawaraya (+81 75 211 5566). They’re not cheap and double rooms at both places start at about £350 but that includes dinner and breakfast. Both are very friendly to Westerners and offer up the most memorable experience of staying in Japan. Dinner in both places is to die for - Kaiseki banquets served in your room, anything up to 13 courses of delectable, seasonal, market fresh vegetables, fish and meat.

 

A cheaper Ryokan is the Three Sisters (+81 75 761 6336) beside the Heian Shrine; doubles start from £56 including breakfast and the owners speak English.

 

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Useful links
Hiiragaya
Hotel Granvia
JAL Europe
Kyoto Visitor`s Guide