A Weekend in Saltaire

If I were to say to you, how about a weekend in Bradford, you’d probably look down, politely change the subject, then, oh, leave the room, thinking “What’s industrial West Yorkshire got to do with me ‘olidays?”

Well, North West of the city is Saltaire, which if it’s good enough for UNESCO, it’s good enough for me. And you.

Of UNESCO’s 878 World Heritage sites, 27 are in Britain, and Saltaire’s one of them. It’s a beautifully preserved model village which is quietly captivating, perfect for a weekend’s exploration combining cool sophistication, country walks, and proper pubs.

Getting there couldn’t be simpler. National Express East Coast Trains will whisk you from London King's Cross to Leeds in a couple of hours for fares which begin at less than twenty quid. Change platforms at Leeds and fifteen minutes later you’re in Saltaire. Leeds Bradford Airport is only a 20 minute cab ride away and it’s an easy three hour motorway drive from London.

OK. WE’RE HERE.

The epicenter of why you’re here is Salts Mill, the kind of place aspiring New York gallery owners lie awake at night dreaming about. Originally a wool mill, it was rescued from dereliction by the late Jonathan Silver, school friend of the artist David Hockney –some would say Britain’s greatest living artist - and now boasts the greatest collection of his works anywhere in the world. Everything the man’s done is available in some form or other – originals, limited editions, prints, postcards, books – as well as a stunning display of his opera sets. The space given over to art is enormous – think of the biggest downtown loft gallery you’ve ever been in and double it – hundreds of Hockney works for sale plus an array he’s donated for display. His own painting of Salts Mill itself dominates one wall. In fact, he now lives not far away in Bridlington, after a lifetime in Los Angeles.

But this huge, beautifully restored building of cast iron pillars and brick vaulted ceilings isn’t just for art lovers. There are shops and cafes and a florist, a tailor, antiques, a bike store, and regular events such as live music and readings. The “Home Store” sells household objects, kitchenware, knick knacks and furniture. It’s not just reminiscent of Manhattan; a large part of the stock comes from the Museum of Modern Art in New York.  You’ll find yourself going back time and again, exploring hidden corners, browsing, relaxing over brunch with the papers. It’s a very cool place, and for reasons I don’t fully understand, it smells nice too!

STAY WHERE?

Cottages and apartments are available in Saltaire Village itself, it’s not often you get the chance to stay in a World Heritage site. The local society advertises holiday lets here.

The properties are small, former mill workers’ homes and well preserved. It’s very quiet at night and there seems to be a large number of friendly little cats wandering around. I have no idea why.

Nearest hotel is the modern, functional Ibis. It’s a five minute walk to Salts Mill and as long as you’re not looking for anything fancy, this provides a bed for the night. Starting as low as £40 for a double. 

If you do have a car, accommodations within a mile or two that can be recommended range from small family run places such as The Homeleigh Hotel (Bradford Road, Shipley), which is bookable through a number of websites with prices starting at £35 for doubles.  Or the newly modernized Lister Mansion which was Bradford’s first boutique hotel (doubles start at £55) and Ford House Farm for something a little more rural.

REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL, 1, 2, 3…

(1)    Saltaire was the creation of nineteenth century industrialist/philanthropist Sir Titus Salt, a former Mayor of Bradford, whose woollen mill (specializing in alpaca) stands today much as it was 100 years ago. It was built three miles from Bradford to escape the smoke and poverty as a utopian workers’ paradise where families were provided with homes, a hospital, alms houses, a church and recreational hall which make up Saltaire Village, perfectly preserved to this day and well worth exploring on foot to understand what life might have been like then (there are organized walks which start at 2 pm every Saturday and Sunday).

More recently the mill was rescued from dilapidation and turned into one of the coolest art/culture centres in the world. The whole 50 acre site is a marvel built in a neo-Italianate style of uniform stone.

(2)    A short bus/cab ride into Bradford will bring you to the National Media Museum (formerly Film and Photography) which houses artefacts from television (Daleks!), film and photography. You can read your own news broadcast, act in your own soap, as well as see the latest movies on the big screen and IMAX. It’s free, fascinating, and not just for children.

(3)    The Worth Valley Steam Railway Society operates out of Keighley, a ten minute scoot up the line from Saltaire. Nearly 300 volunteers run the line, where steam trains operate year round through stations which hard back to the 1950's. A round trip will cost you just under a tenner but there are a variety of family and saver fares. It's a fantastic step back in time, runs like clockwork (ho ho ho) and the fully stocked bar on board with real ales is an added bonus. There are museums en route, Bronte country, and the line sits amid some of Yorkshire's most attractive countryside.

LET’S DO LUNCH

Cheap

In Victoria Road the Saltaire Village Bakery sells, to take away or sit in, a rich variety of Yorkshire pies and pasties. Try the Yorkshire Curd Tart with a glass of Dandelion and Burdock (an acquired local taste).

Not so cheap

Inside the Mill itself, both the Salts Diner (from salads to bangers and mash) and the upstairs Café Opera serve up lunch that is freshly cooked to order, the latter being a little more sophisticated and skewed towards fresh seafood and shellfish. The diner is a busy, bustling affair, decorated with local artists' work among the general Hockney theme. Good wines complement the fresh, local food and there's a blackboard for specials which change daily.

Not cheap but worthwhile

When Saltaire was built there were no licensed premises and so the joke is now on the creator as a wine bar has been named “Don’t Tell Titus” which serves up to a well-heeled clientele a modern range of wines, beers and bistro foods over brunch, lunch and dinner. Bar snacks include pakora and artisan breads, the upstairs restaurant has seasonal specials like summer pea risotto as well as paneer curries, hamburgers and steaks. High quality cooking sets it apart from the competition. Around the corner there’s another upmarket restaurant Restaurant La Rue which to be honest I haven’t tried but it’s the only one in the immediate area. Feedback would be invaluable.

WHAT’S YOURS?

The Saltaire pub is Fanny’s, a splendid old establishment with a wide range of daily changing real ales supplementing the Timothy Taylors and a large, loyal clientele from the area. It’s been extended up, down and out so the small, snug bar is now joined by several other rooms in which to spread out and relax. Food too, but to be frank most people are here for the beer. The Weekender's favourite, locally made Pork Scratchings, are in good supply.

DINNER IS SERVED

You can’t come to Bradford and not have a curry; it was even voted “Curry Capital” of the UK a few years ago. If you want to travel back in time then go to the Kashmir (27 Morley Street) where curries are served night and day in the home style, with chapattis and other breads rather than rice or cutlery and a filling, delicious meal for three costs £18. Eat downstairs, not on the ground floor, that’s for tourists.

Nearer to Saltaire is the more modern Aagarah (4 Saltaire Road) which is part of a much larger group and this is company HQ. Upstairs is an eat as much as you want buffet and grill which is highly recommended while downstairs is the "award winning" more normal fare. Mixed or chicken pakora, grilled lamb chops to start, followed by Chicken or Lamb Hydrabad or a mixed Thali with oven fresh naan breads and excellent wines and beers make this an absolute must during any visit. An uninspiring exterior gives way to a welcoming and well run curry house as good as anywhere in England's curry capital.

DRIVE BY

For an hour or so…

Get the local train out of Saltaire Sunday lunchtime and ten minutes later you’re in Bingley. The Brown Cow at Ireland Bridge serves the full range of Timothy Taylor ales and a traditional Sunday lunch (does everyone have the roast beef and Yorkshire pudding?) A walk back to Saltaire along the River Aire is a very pleasant way to spend the afternoon, just follow the riverside. It’s a little overgrown in parts but very pleasant.

For the day…

The Keighley and Worth Valley Railway, as detailed elsewhere, will take you to Bronte Country. Alight at Haworth (their website reveals all) and spend the day where the Bronte sisters were inspired to write Wuthering Heights and Jayne Eyre. Haworth itself is from another era with old inns and shops plus the Bronte Parsonage Museum, home to the Bronte family in the first half of the 19th century. Old buses add to the atmosphere and then there's the moors themselves where The Sisters wandered. Make sure you get a steam train back to complete the day.