Day 10 – Halifax: Ghosts and Breweries
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One of the best parts of visiting Halifax by cruise is that the ship docks virtually in the centre of the action. Halifax is actually a very walk-able city. There is even a path along the harbour, which is both picturesque and practical. You don’t need to book a car tour to see the highlights of the city. Walk it, or you can simply hop in a cab if you don’t feel like a trek. Nothing is more than a 10-minute ride away.
We first rode over to one site we had been looking forward to since Dover. Although a sombre start to the day, we could not visit Halifax and miss this site. Standing amongst the graves of the Titanic’s victims after having crossed the tumultuous North Atlantic by ship is overwhelmingly poignant, to say the least. The Fairview Lawn cemetery has 121 Titanic burials, the most in any Titanic graveyard, but only a small portion of the 1,500 victims of this disaster. On the morning we are touring Halifax, there is a slight dampness on the grass and the sun casts long shadows from the granite markers. Many of the stones have no name, just these words: Died April 15, 1912, and a number. The number represents the order in which the bodies were recovered from the sea.
After the Titanic disaster, the White Star Line contacted the ships of Halifax and asked them to take on the difficult task of searching for bodies, hence the strong link between the town and the ship. The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic has an excellent exhibit about the sinking, including a deck chair recovered from the wreckage. We spent a long time going through the exhibition, revelling in the beauty of old-world ocean liners and feeling a sense of connection to the people who similarly left England with a sense of excitement but who never did reach North America.
After exploring the Titanic connection to Halifax, we then headed off to have lunch along the waterside. We chose to eat at Salty’s, and were given a table squeezed into a big bay window. The view out over the deck below and beyond into the waves really helped bring a sense of calm to the day. I ordered crab cakes, and did not regret the choice.
After lunch, Jen, Kirsten and I headed towards one of Halifax’s independent breweries, always interested to compare the finest brews of various locations around the globe. Propeller Brewery is an excellent example of great brew and a great local atmosphere. After the brewmaster Don offered us a tasting of their finest (don’t miss the IPA or the Porter, both are absolutely sensational), we learned more about the local brewery scene in Halifax. As we had an appointment with Garrison Brewery, one of Propeller’s local “rivals” directly afterwards, we couldn’t linger long. In a display of true Halifax hospitality, Don offered to drive us down to Garrison. We happily accepted and headed towards the dock, where the other brewery is located.
Garrison’s large tasting room was full of other cruise guests when we arrived, already lined up at the two bars. The brewery is now in its 12th year and has interesting choices such as Jalapeño Ale and Blueberry Wheat. The ability to create beer that tastes like nachos and blueberry pancakes, respectively, is quite a feat. I purchased one of each to take home, because I doubt anyone will believe me that they exist otherwise.
We rushed back to the ship, pausing in the huge tourist-trap shopping centre at the terminal to purchase Haunted Harbours by Steve Vernon, an account of Nova Scotia’s harbour ghosts. He was even on hand signing copies!
Halifax is truly a place with rich history, even if in many cases it is a sad history. It’s definitely an important stop along the route home for any transatlantic traveller.
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Back to Travel Diaries
Read the other articles:
Day 12 - Air vs Sea
Day 12 - Homecoming
Day 10 - Battle of the Brews
Day 10 - Halifax: Ghosts and Breweries (you are here)
Day 8 – A Very Special Privilege
Day 8 – Quidi Vidi Brewery – Beer, with a side of history
Day 8 - Signal Hill and the Village of Quidi Vidi
Day 8 - North America's Far East
Day 8 - New Found Land
Day 8 – Land! Land! St. John’s, Newfoundland
Day 7 – You Have Permission to Enter the Bridge
A Peak at the Inner Workings of the Norwegian Jewel
How to Pour Champagne in a Moving Vehicle
Days 5-6 Shetlands to Iceland
Days 0-4 Dover to the Shetlands
Useful links
Garrison Brewing Company
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
Propeller Brewery
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