The Mild West: A Weekend Break in Argyll
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It's breakfast time and you're thinking fresh air, open space, wilderness even. Peace and quiet. By lunchtime preferably. You, nature, forests, mountains - an eagle or two would be nice – so no traffic. And absolutely no tourists.
That would be awesome.
No. Actually that would be Loch Awe. In Argyll.
OK. WE’RE HERE.
It takes a while to chill by the water's edge, staring up at Ben Cruachan with its surrounding peaks. There's no noise, because you left the traffic a good twenty miles ago. There's the rustle of the trees, and the landscape’s bright green and brown and purple – call that loud if you will - but there aren’t any jetskis, or yelling children, or even shops trying to sell you tartan things to stick on your fridge.
Loch Awe is Scotland's longest inland loch and hardly anybody goes there. It’s beautiful. It’s got a small island with a castle in the middle and absolutely no monsters. Guaranteed. There are single track roads either side, but they don't really go anywhere. Narrow, winding, twisting curves where deer wander and rabbit scurry. They connect little hamlets and cottages, small farms and forests. Which in turn all connect you to the area’s ancient Celtic history.
In the water, you may catch the silvery flash of a mighty salmon, or the yellow gnashers of a pike. On land, you're more likely to see a mountain bike, or a walker, than the day's passing motorist.
Awesome barely covers it.
How to get there
Keep it simple. To Glasgow by car or train is fine, but there are 73 flights a day from London alone, never mind all the other British cities. The airport is several miles west of the urban sprawl so there’s no need to reconnect with mass humanity at all for the whole weekend.
All the global car hire companies are at the airport, including Scotland's Arnold Clark, who are fast, cheap, efficient, with a big fleet. Hire a car. Drive off. The adjoining M8 motorway quickly takes you over the Erskine Bridge to the picturesque, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond - an easy drive along a fast, wide road - then through a dramatic mountain pass (the "Rest and Be Thankful") to Inverary, where the road signs are suddenly bilingual: English and Gaelic. Here is where it all gets very interesting, rather than just scenic. The road narrows to single track, the traffic disappears, and you head for Loch Awe. 90 minutes from the airport. Max.
You can go all year round – the snow in midwinter just makes it more special.
STAY WHERE?
You want peace, quiet and fresh air, so while the main roads are littered with B&B's, small hotels and all manner of lodges (you will never be stuck for a place to stay around here) if you want something really special then head down to Taychreggan on the shore of Loch Awe. That single track road gets narrower, more twisty, more up and down, until you really know you're heading to nowhere. Nobody passes though here. Taychreggan is at the end of the road, perched on the shore, it’s secluded, extensive grounds miles from anywhere, with a view to die for. A small, highland lodge that's been quietly brought up to speed. Don't expect any tartan or haggis gimcrackery here, just cool public rooms, with comfortable chairs, a light touch throughout (no heavy drapery) and a staff who're bright, young and local. There's a welcome on the hillside alright, but it's very laid back.
Whereas the bedrooms, are not. They've been created by someone who has travelled, who understands why a big, comfortable bed is key, why in large, spacious bathrooms a rolltop bath and a walk-in shower are further enhanced with underfoot heating, and why a beautiful view from the window is worth ten framed "Highland Scenes" on the wall. A welcoming decanter of sherry sparks a smile, too, of how an ancient name “Rest and be Thankful” can still be so singularly apt.
Urban creature comforts are augmented by a few necessities: wellies and umbrellas, walking sticks and Hugh, a man with some serious whiskers who'll arrange any kind of shooting, hunting, fishing, sporting activity you might want. (All you have to do is consider whether you actually want to do anything!).
Breakfast is what you might hope for, rather than just expect. Fresh fruits and juices, fresh bakery, kippers and home made this and locally sourced that. No greasy fry-ups, nothing’s tired here (except possibly you) and it’s all served in a bright room with wide open windows overlooking the loch, offering prospects for the day that might be sunny (going out) or wet (still going out).
It’s a very secluded, almost secret, little place. Prices fluctuate wildly throughout the seasons but the website gives details of “three for two” nights Spring specials and New Year packages.
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