The Mild West: A Weekend in Argyll
It's breakfast time and you're thinking fresh air, open space, wilderness even. Peace and quiet. By lunchtime preferably. You, nature, forests, mountains - an eagle or two would be nice – so no traffic. And absolutely no tourists.
That would be awesome.
No. Actually that would be Loch Awe. In Argyll.
OK. WE’RE HERE.
It takes a while to chill by the water's edge, staring up at Ben Cruachan with its surrounding peaks. There's no noise, because you left the traffic a good twenty miles ago. There's the rustle of the trees, and the landscape’s bright green and brown and purple – call that loud if you will - but there aren’t any jetskis, or yelling children, or even shops trying to sell you tartan things to stick on your fridge.
Loch Awe is Scotland's longest inland loch and hardly anybody goes there. It’s beautiful. It’s got a small island with a castle in the middle and absolutely no monsters. Guaranteed. There are single track roads either side, but they don't really go anywhere. Narrow, winding, twisting curves where deer wander and rabbit scurry. They connect little hamlets and cottages, small farms and forests. Which in turn all connect you to the area’s ancient Celtic history.
In the water, you may catch the silvery flash of a mighty salmon, or the yellow gnashers of a pike. On land, you're more likely to see a mountain bike, or a walker, than the day's passing motorist.
Awesome barely covers it.
How to get there
Keep it simple. To Glasgow by car or train is fine, but there are 73 flights a day from London alone, never mind all the other British cities. The airport is several miles west of the urban sprawl so there’s no need to reconnect with mass humanity at all for the whole weekend.
All the global car hire companies are at the airport, including Scotland's Arnold Clark, who are fast, cheap, efficient, with a big fleet. Hire a car. Drive off. The adjoining M8 motorway quickly takes you over the Erskine Bridge to the picturesque, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond - an easy drive along a fast, wide road - then through a dramatic mountain pass (the "Rest and Be Thankful") to Inverary, where the road signs are suddenly bilingual: English and Gaelic. Here is where it all gets very interesting, rather than just scenic. The road narrows to single track, the traffic disappears, and you head for Loch Awe. 90 minutes from the airport. Max.
You can go all year round – the snow in midwinter just makes it more special.
STAY WHERE?
You want peace, quiet and fresh air, so while the main roads are littered with B&B's, small hotels and all manner of lodges (you will never be stuck for a place to stay around here) if you want something really special then head down to Taychreggan on the shore of Loch Awe. That single track road gets narrower, more twisty, more up and down, until you really know you're heading to nowhere. Nobody passes though here. Taychreggan is at the end of the road, perched on the shore, it’s secluded, extensive grounds miles from anywhere, with a view to die for. A small, highland lodge that's been quietly brought up to speed. Don't expect any tartan or haggis gimcrackery here, just cool public rooms, with comfortable chairs, a light touch throughout (no heavy drapery) and a staff who're bright, young and local. There's a welcome on the hillside alright, but it's very laid back.
Whereas the bedrooms, are not. They've been created by someone who has travelled, who understands why a big, comfortable bed is key, why in large, spacious bathrooms a rolltop bath and a walk-in shower are further enhanced with underfoot heating, and why a beautiful view from the window is worth ten framed "Highland Scenes" on the wall. A welcoming decanter of sherry sparks a smile, too, of how an ancient name “Rest and be Thankful” can still be so singularly apt.
Urban creature comforts are augmented by a few necessities: wellies and umbrellas, walking sticks and Hugh, a man with some serious whiskers who'll arrange any kind of shooting, hunting, fishing, sporting activity you might want. (All you have to do is consider whether you actually want to do anything!).
Breakfast is what you might hope for, rather than just expect. Fresh fruits and juices, fresh bakery, kippers and home made this and locally sourced that. No greasy fry-ups, nothing’s tired here (except possibly you) and it’s all served in a bright room with wide open windows overlooking the loch, offering prospects for the day that might be sunny (going out) or wet (still going out).
It’s a very secluded, almost secret, little place. Prices fluctuate wildly throughout the seasons but the website gives details of “three for two” nights Spring specials and New Year packages.
REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL, 1,2,3…
(1) The Forests, mountains and lochs
Scotland’s countryside sure is pretty but long before the pine trees and sheep arrived it was all deciduous – the ‘Caledonian Forest’ stretched from coast to coast – and around Loch Awe it’s being re-introduced, preserved, and managed alongside commercial forestry. The paths for walks and routes for mountain biking around Inverliever Forest are all clearly marked.
A boat can be hired to take you onto the Loch itself or you could go to neighbouring Loch Etive for a cruise there, starting from the jetty at Bonawe, where an iron foundry from the last century that once produced cannonballs for the Napoleonic War is preserved perfectly. (It was the charcoal apparently).
(2) Inverary
An attractive little town, rebuilt by the Duke of Argyll after his decision to knock down the old one in order to accommodate a new castle. Its neat, spruced-up harbour and jail are the main attractions but seek out “Para Handy", a ‘puffer’ made famous by through TV series based on hilarious books by Neil Munro, who was borne here. The rebuilt castle may seem Disneyesque, but it’s home to a more sobering story as HQ for the Clan Campbell, who notoriously slaughtered their MacDonald hosts in one of Scotland's bloodiest ambushes - you're unlikely to ever see a Big Mac franchise in here.
(3) Oban
The main coastal town, a bustling fishing harbour and ‘road to the isles’ for ferries to the Inner Hebrides such as Mull and Iona. As such it’s been modernised accordingly but ‘old Oban’ can be found in the recently opened "Museum of War And Peace" occupying the ground floor of the imposing seafront Oban Times building, a quite staggering collection of local memorabilia. It's small, but be prepared to spend an hour. Crowning the town, quite literally, is McCaig's folly, a sizeable Victorian vanity project which is worth the trip up if only for the stunning view across to the isles.
LET’S DO LUNCH
(1) Cheap
In Oban you'll find a great array of cheap foodshops serving fishermen and the local population. The best pies ("award winning") are £1.20 in the Nevis Bakery (Stevenson Street) and the best fish and chips are over the road in George Street, in the wittily named Fish and Chip Shop which does haddock and chips for £5.30 or a vegetarian special - coleslaw and chips. Fishermen have been known to follow this fare with a pint or two, or possibly even a whisky, in one of the town’s many, many pubs. I've yet to find a bad one.
(2) Not so cheap
New kid on the block is Piazza, all bright red modern steel and glass on the quayside, with great views across the water, serving up standard Italian fare. It’s identical neighbour, Ee Usk, (they’re owned by the one family) offers up award winning and slightly more expensive seafood. Both are good. Check out the daily specials.
Not doing lunch yet but worth checking out is the Seafood Temple, owned and run by fishermen themselves, serving the freshest, cheapest fish (Oysters £4.95 for 6, whole lobster £18.95) and best dinner in town with by far the best view overlooking Oban. Opening times vary at present. (01631 56 6000)
(3) Not cheap but worth it
On the main road to Inverary is the original Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, progenitor of the chain created in the south of England, which not only serves oysters straight from the loch in front of you, but a wide range of fishy things as well as meat . You can also buy everything in the shop next door which in turn has led to a successful mail order business. It’s also where Gordon Brown famously denied hatching a political plot with John Prescott.
WHAT’S YOURS?
Whisky, a single malt I would recommend, in one of two isolated bars. The Taynuilt Hotel has been home to locals for decades and the Kilchrenan Inn is a very decent little village pub by Loch Awe. (Both have reasonable pub grub too). Don't show off, just buy a half (the whisky) and a half (the chaser beer - 80 Shilling is best) and be happy. If it’s cold outside, you’ll appreciate the warm fires and the medicinal properties of Scotch Whisky, taken with just a little water, but no ice please.
DINNER IS SERVED
At Taychreggan, dinner is where it all falls into place. The whole laid back atmosphere, the location, the bright, tartan-free decor would all count for zero if they got this wrong.
Fresh air, a hot bath and that snifter make you peckish. The cutlery and glassware sparkle, the napery is white as driven snow, and the view over the water picture perfect. But is the kitchen busy preparing sub-Gordon Ramsay minimalism, or microwaving more typical Highland fare, straight from the freezer?
Thankfully neither – dinner is fresh, creative, and clever, managing to be both posh and substantial, the kind of fare that first attracted people to regional France – le menu du terroir - where local produce served by fresh faced youngsters is cooked with care, flair and respect.
Chef’s appetisers are small(ish) and tasty –baked goat’s cheese with sweet red onions or halibut with homemade tartar sauce – and indicate that all is well. Proper food is on its way.
A ravioli of salmon and scallop is the real thing, a slice of each in a large pasta envelope, spiked with salsa, and more scallop. Another starter, slow braised spiced belly of pork, packed a powerful smoky/salty punch, enlivened further by buttered leeks, soy and sesame. Espresso cups of intense soup – white onion and garlic, veloute of chanterelle – replace tongue-freezing sorbets to excite before mains of loin of lamb, pommery mustard mousse and fondant potato, an exercise in precisely matched tenderness and texture, and medallion of rare beef fillet, succulent and juicy, with celeriac rosti, roast parsnips and sauted chanterelles. A seasonal delight. Local fish is in plentiful supply too. Puddings are light and sweet or rich and substantial. The cheese platter consists of localised, large hunks, and is in perfect nick.
The wine list is held in tight rein, the chef selection starting as low as £15 for a decent (Galetis) VDP French Merlot or a Tempranillo, then slowly creeping all the way up to £65 for ‘81 La Lagune, half the London price, (where they haven’t had to drag it up to the wilds of Scotland for your delectation).
Six courses. Forty quid. Good wine. What’s not to like?
DRIVE BY
(1) For an hour or so
The three best sights to go see are Kilmartin House Museum, Auchindrain Museum and Dunstaffnage Castle, a glorious ruined fortress/tower with so much history attached to it’s four square walls it will make your head spin.
(2) For the day
Mountain biking is really, really the thing here. Signposted and graded according to distance, difficulty, and gradients, you’re not going to be joining a convoy here. For an area so close to the city, it’s astoundingly isolated and peaceful. Get a taster here from the Forestry Commission.
(3) Overnight?
Oban is the year round gateway to most islands but a unique, summer opportunity exists to get to Jura, the ‘jewel’ of the Inner Hebrides kept isolated over the decades by not having a direct car ferry link. It’s peaceful, long and narrow, with just one road stretching north and south from the only village, Craighouse. A fast passenger service will now whisk you from Tayvallich (head for Crinan on the map) to there in less than an hour. This is where George Orwell came to convalesce in 1948 and famously wrote “1984”. Day returns are available or stay the night in the island’s only hotel, handily placed opposite the distillery.
Further reading
VisitScotland’s new “locals guide”, written by locals to reveal more of Argyll's secrets, and “Scotland the Best” by Peter Irvine. Nobody should ever visit Scotland without a copy.
Added 2008/10/17 @ 00:00:53
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