Visit Fort William - but where’s the fort?
The highest annual rainfall in Britain, the biggest supermarket in the Highlands, and a busy new bypass running along the historic waterfront… Fort William’s highlights don’t sound promising. There isn’t even a Fort.
Nevertheless this wet and windy West Highland town gets a huge slice of world attention because it has played host to so many blockbuster films like Local Hero, Rob Roy and Braveheart.
And in the Harry Potter films, the Quidditch Match was filmed in Glen Nevis just outside Fort William, and around pupils from Fort William High School were also seen waving from the Hogwarts Express (alias The Jacobite Steam Train).
It’s famous, it’s well-publicised and it has been a major British tourist destination for more than a century. But none of that success is due to Fort William’s great attractions – there aren’t any - it’s because of its amazing location.
Fort William stands right at the foot of Britain’s highest mountain Ben Nevis, alongside the towering flight of eight locks from the Caledonian canal down to sea level, and at the point where the scenic Loch Linnhe meets Loch Eil and the River Lochy.
This fabulous spot means that you can spot snowy mountains from the middle of the High Street and can see lochs in the gap between the chip shop and the Post Office. Drive through modern housing estates on the edge of town and the wide, well-lit road suddenly becomes a single-track mountain track as you pass the last front door.
World class attractions like Loch Ness, Castle Urquhart, the Glenfinnan Monument and Glencoe are within a short drive. But Fort William itself has never been seen as more than a rather dour place to stop to buy a box of souvenir shortbread.
The main undiscovered treasure in the town is the West Highland Museum, which has a quirky collection of historic artefacts including the world’s oldest bagpipes and a ‘secret’ portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie. At a time when a real portrait would have landed his Jacobite supporters in serious trouble, this is apparently a tray covered with random squiggles of paint. If you look at a reflection in the curve of a shiny goblet however the squiggles transform into a perfect likeness.
There are lots of rugged clothing shops and a variety of pubs and restaurants. The town serves a wide area. It’s incredible to think people drive for an hour to get here for a taste of excitement.
On the outskirts of town there’s a whisky distillery that gives tours and a geological museum called Treasures of the Earth. In the summer there are boat trips on the Loch, walks up the series of canal locks called Neptune’s Staircase and the exciting ski lift up the slopes of Ben Nevis.
These dramatic slopes play host to one of Britain’s most spectacular sporting events each Spring, when the Mountain Biking World Cup competitors hurtle down the almost vertical mountain side for almost two miles. Thousands turn up to watch the inevitable dramatic spills.
But what of ‘Fort Bill’ itself? Like me, most visitors never get over the disappointment of finding the 17th century fort of the town’s name is now just a flattened ruin alongside a huge Safeway supermarket.
Overnight accommodation is available at Inverlochy Castle, which has been judged Europe’s best small hotel. It’s a spectacular spot but sadly its pretty expensive. Rooms are up to £650 a night.
Further north there’s better value at The Old Pines at Spean Bridge. There’s brilliant award-winning food, amazing views, relaxed atmosphere… and pretty basic rooms - sorry there had to be a catch somewhere. Nevertheless, my wife and I stayed there the night after I got married. Dinner, B&B from £82.50 a night.
Added 2008/11/21 @ 17:12:50
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