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The Winelover’s Pilgrimage: A Weekend in Dijon

recommended by The Weekender

The Winelover’s Pilgrimage: A Weekend in Dijon

Dijon Market - © Alain Doire

There's barely a cupboard in the land that doesn't have a little bulbous jar of yellowy mustard labelled "Dijon", the famous product of a delightful city in eastern France all but overlooked by visitors, not least the French themselves. Oenophiles whizz through to the Route des Vins de Bourgogne, possibly France's greatest wine trail, and yet the announced closure of the Maille mustard factories was greeted throughout France with shock. Dijon - without mustard! Unthinkable!

For those keen to sample the delights of Burgundy this is the first stop, the ancient capital, a classic provincial city with a past rich in royal history, revolutionary fervour, and bloody religious martyrdom. That's in among shops which close for lunch at 12 noon prompt, and neighbouring restaurants which are full by five past. In the evenings it's quiet, save for the hostelries and bistros which serve the Dijonnais their suppers.

How to get there
Less than two hours east of Paris by superfast TGV, (there's no direct flight from the UK) Dijon is easily reachable from Gare de Lyon, the Parisian Station that houses Le Train Bleu, the city's most attractive dining room and an eminently desirable stop in itself, well worth half an hour of anyone's time to sit amid some of the most splendid restaurant decoration in France.

Eurostar has opened up onward destinations from Paris with a simple change of station from Gare du Nord. Train tickets and Interrail passes can be booked through Rail Europe.

On arrival in Dijon, car hire offices are inside the station, with vehicles sitting outside, so you can be gone in less than five minutes if you've prebooked with any of the well known groups such as Avis. The city is best explored on foot, but the surrounding winelands require a car.

The drive from Calais is about five hours.

OK. WE'RE HERE.
Dijon sits at the head of several wine routes which weave their way down to Beaune, capital of the Burgundy wine business, via towns and villages which read like the world's best wine list – Gevrey Chambertin, Nuits St Georges, and the spectacular Chateau du Clos de Vougeot. As a consequence it's sometimes overlooked by thirsty visitors en route to the cellars and caves which have brought wealth to the region. It's certainly a serious reason to be here, and there's no shortage of outlets.

Travellers tip: The old idea of jolly Frenchmen pootling home in their 2CV after sampling a few bouteilles is history. Drink driving is seriously policed everywhere in France, especially in wine areas. If you're the designated driver around the vineyards, you'll be using the spittoon. Just like a professional.

And Dijon is more than just wine, its rich mix of ancient architectural styles illustrate quite dramatically the ancient orders of France, from Royalty to revolution. A conservation area of about 50 town houses which are mostly a soft limestone, predominately pale yellow but occasionally tinged with rose, are carved and sculpted artistically to symbolise grandeur to those without, for the wealthy residents within. The main piazza, a recent project, saw off what was basically a car park and replaced it with fountains, cafes, and a pleasant place in which to stroll and consider the delights of the ducal palace.

The cathedral is a fine affair, with 51 gargoyles leering down at you and chipped remains of many statues over the door – chiselled off during the Revolution and left as a scar for all to see.

STAY WHERE?
In town, there is plenty of choice – Sofitel and Ibis have two branches here – and the tourism office will assist. But just half an hour to the east is one of France's most wonderful properties, the Abbaye de la Bussiere-sur-Ouche, a mouthful indeed but a grand cru in waiting.

This isn't a hotel in the grounds of an Abbey, it's the Abbey itself, a full-on conversion from a religious retreat for monks which dates back to 1131, to a modern, and very striking, hotel.

All the more surprising to discover that the team who run it are English, the Cummings family, previously of Amberley Castle in West Sussex, who negotiated special permission from the local archbishop to buy and convert this property plus its 15 acres of parkland and outbuildings.

The drive through the Vallee d'Ouche (the D33), is one picturesque village after another, the last one of which is Bussiere , where imposing gates lead the way along a long, crunchy gravel drive, past a few charming outbuildings to the Abbey, an imposing structure.

The welcome couldn't be warmer, from both the Cummings and their manager Julie Steele, in a central lobby which is quite breathtaking. The archbishop who gave permission for the conversion didn't want the character of the building altered – and it hasn't been. The light, blonde stone is matched by equally light wood and fittings – it's disarmingly restful from the moment you walk through the door – a legacy from the monks - and the rooms are now comfortable rather than ascetic.

The welcome includes a DIY Kir Royale – a small chilled bottle of Cremant de Bourgogne from Rully (Vitteaut-Alberti) with a miniature of velours de nuit au Cassis, from the Cote d'Or – plus some local chocolate and the area's exceptionally rich, spiced gingerbread cake, a decadent confection made succulent with honey.

Beds are suitably massive, as are the rooms, furnished with a mix of heavy, solid French pieces and flat screen TVs. There are masses of comfy cushions everywhere, and soft toys, all very home-from-home. The views across the grounds and the surrounding hillsides – you're on the edge of some of France's most important vineyards here – couldn't be more restful. There's no passing traffic, save for the odd tractor, just forestry, grass and fields.

The bathrooms are the money shots – walk in power showers, Jacuzzi baths, his and her vanity suites. Ultra modern, slate floors, puffy towels and robes.

This is a fascinating building to explore, find your corner, and relax. There are "his'n'her" lounges, rooms off, a library and chairs everywhere, plus a main restaurant and bistro. Outside, there are a further half dozen buildings including a crypt for the pensive, and a quite spectacular 14th century wine press. It's worth more than an overnight stay en route, two days here and you don't want to leave.

The website has details of offers – 3 nights for 2 and so on.