Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Rock, Cornwall
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The reason Restaurant Nathan Outlaw disappeared from this year's UK Michelin awards - where it had been tipped to take a second Michelin Star - is not that the chef had in any way deteriorated - but that he decamped. He brought his fine dining restaurant to Rock, in the St Enodoc Hotel where he has had his casual brasserie, the Nathan Outlaw Seafood & Grill, for the past year; the two Outlaw restaurants now sit side by side.
The gloriously-named Outlaw has just had some repeat TV exposure on BBC's Great British Menu, where he was rightly proclaimed winner of the south-west regional heats. A Londoner, he honed his skills in Cornwall where he once cooked at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant. His first two restaurants closed soon after the first coveted Michelin rosette was bestowed on each of them, but that was to do with business decisions rather than Nathan's cooking.
His restaurant in Fowey garnered him yet another Michelin star, but we'll have to wait until next January to find out whether he can manage to pull the award off for the fourth time in yet another location.
Nathan's food is about gutsy flavours, but no more than three in any dish - think whisky-marinated fresh salmon served with beetroot risotto followed by poached pears with gingerbread ice-cream. He even made his own sea salt from seawater hauled up from the harbour, though it remains to be seen whether he will be able to manage to repeat this trick with water from the Camel Estuary. He is, however, just five minutes from the site of Britain's most gorgeously creamy oysters, gathered in Rock.
For those who wonder how breakfast can possibly live up to lunch and dinner on the Cornwall foodie trail, Nathan supervises breakfast at the hotel, which guarantees a treat.
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Cost 3 course a la carte: £50+ per person
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Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Rock, Cornwall
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