Water of Leith
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As the only river flowing through the centre of Edinburgh, the Water of Leith is the locals’ green paradise. The river, called 'silver thread in a ribbon of green', flows 12 miles in length, starting near the Pentland Hills in a town called Balerno, before wrapping around the western and northern edge of the city centre, then heading down hill into Leith harbour. Walking paths have been refurbished and now visitors and tourists can explore almost the entire length of the river. The route is well signposted, even on parts where the path strays from the water’s edge; sights include historic architecture, wooded landscapes, and miniature waterfalls. Leith itself makes a great weekend destination as well.
The most scenic part of the route is the section from Roseburn Terrace to Stockbridge, a trendy neighbourhood full of pubs and boutiques. To reach Roseburn, either walk or take buses 26 or 31 west from Haymarket Station. Roseburn Terrace is at the end of West Coates Road, past the large castle-like building that is Donaldson’s College, former home to the Edinburgh School for the Deaf.
The path lies behind the roadway, as noted by the brown signs labelled "Water of Leith". Heading through the rod iron fencing and down into the valley, one is transported into a world of green, where the adjacent city is drowned out by the sound of birds, rushing water, and the stomping of your feet. Every so often, the river will cascade over a miniature waterfall, called a weir. These weirs were put in place years ago to regulate the flow of the waters that powered mills build along the river. Although no mills are here today, the remnants of these structures can be seen in several places.
Signs along the route point to the Dean Gallery, one of Edinburgh’s two modern art galleries. The Dean makes for an excellent stop along the route; otherwise continue on where the route will meander its way into a tiny village, called Dean Village. In the days of milling, this was called the Water of Leith village, and other than the name, little has changed; the houses form a tiny bowl around the water, protected and sheltered from the outside world.
Beyond Dean Village, the path passes underneath a very majestic bridge, the Dean Bridge, build by Thomas Telford in 1832. Telford is affectionately known as the ‘man who built Britain’, and his influence on architecture and technology is seen throughout the country. Dean Bridge was important as it provided a connecting point across the valley to join Edinburgh and the villages to the south.
Crossing underneath the Bridge, the path reaches another unique attraction a few metres later – Saint Bernard’s Well. Built in 1760, the well wouldn’t look out of place in a Greek temple or Roman villa. Although closed today, it still is a functioning well, sourcing its waters from a spring in the hills nearby, not from the cloudy river water just next to it.
From here the path extends its reach directly into the charming Edinburgh neighbourhood of Stockbridge. Just to the north of town, Stockbridge has a number of trendy pubs, cafes, and boutique shopping that will satisfy the needs of every traveller. From Stockbridge, buses head up hill and directly into Princes Street.
For those looking to walk further, the path does continue on the other side of the river all the way to the Shore in Leith. While there are fewer attractions on this section of the walk, the pathway is still quite scenic and peaceful. The Shore also is home to a number of restaurants and pubs, with easy bus service back into the city.
Note, the paths can be wet and slippery even on a sunny day. Reasonable footwear is required.
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