Abbaye de la Bussiere
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One of the 21st century’s most audacious gambles must be that of a young English couple fielding a new gastronomic hostelry in the heart of gourmet France.
But, as Clive Cummings would point out, the Abbaye de la Bussiere was founded by an Englishman in 1131, and his family, who until 2006 were owners of Amberley Castle in Sussex, know all about transforming old piles into romantic retreats with their ancient stones and atmosphere intact.
Less than five years ago, the Cistercian abbey - in a ravishingly pretty, riverside stretch of Burgundy - was a very different kind of retreat, a low-cost refuge which had depleted the funds of its ecclesiastical owners. “Part of the deal was to honour existing bookings, keeping the cell-like rooms and serving up simple food for months before the conversion,” says Clive, who played host to the spiritual seekers while his wife Tanith, doyenne of the front office, packed up their home and young children.
Seven million Euros later the Gothic pile and its 15-acre park remain, but the cells have been transformed into 16 luxurious rooms with cutting-edge bathrooms and tranquil views of the ancient plantings.
A four-poster bed and huge oval bath with inset lights and candles, permitting a restorative soak with bathroom lights turned off, mitigated the six-hour drive from Calais; either share the driving, for you will need your car, or break the journey in Paris. The only sign of teething trouble during our stay soon after the hotel’s spring opening was our “wet room” shower failing to drain fast enough to prevent flooding the bathroom.
The gourmet restaurant was up to speed within a month of opening. Young chef Olivier Elzer has already been awarded a Michelin star. There is a notable cellar at the mid to high end, but local wines are so overpriced it pays to choose the southernmost “crus”, e.g. Montagny, Rully, Mercurey, which cost less and drink well younger.
However, part of the draw of Burgundy is the chance to sniff its great growths and gawp at the noble vineyards of Montrachet, Nuits St.Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin. A world away in atmosphere, the route des grands vins is within half an hour of the abbey, separated from the verdant valley of the Ouche by a hilly road.
Also nearby are beautiful villages and chateaux of northern Burgundy, to which a day or two should be devoted. There is the tiny medieval Chateauneuf-sur-Auxois, denoted one of the prettiest villages in France, while half an hour north, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is more of a sleeping beauty with its narrow streets and turreted houses. Too sleepy, perhaps, for those who like to browse in little shops and may prefer Semur-en-Auxois, with a good little street market. The 12th century Abbaye de Fontenay, a world heritage site noted for its golden Romanesque architecture is worth a diversion.
The Abbaye is part of our great weekend guide to Dijon and Burgundy.
La Bussière-sur-Ouche , Dijon, France
Contact tel: +33 (0) 3 80 49 02 29, fax: +33 (0) 3 80 49 05 23, e-mail:
Cost standard double room: £200 - £500 per night, family room: £200 - £500 per night
Services parking, hotel restaurant, hotel bar
Useful links
Abbaye de Fontenay
Abbaye de la Bussiere-sur-Ouche
The Winelover’s Pilgrimage: A Weekend in Dijon
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