Paris Step by Step: A Weekend on the Champs Elysees

The Champs Elysees is possibly the best known street in the western world, who writes songs about Oxford Street?

It’s the backbone of Paris’s central 8th arrondisement, where visitors jostle and swarm at every conceivable holiday break in the calendar. There’s always a buzz, if only from the traffic, and while it can be stiflingly unpleasant on a hot day it’s still a special place to saunter on a warm evening

Global brands which can be bought anywhere dominate the shops, and favourable exchange rates will occasionally create a queue of bargain hunting young Japanese who can’t believe their luck as they pass through the velvet ropes of the Louis Vuitton megastore. Off the main drag there are much more interesting, smaller shops (see Part 3).

But window shopping and people watching, as the sun sets over the Arc de Triomphe in spring, is still a glorious and faintly glamorous thing to do.

How to get there:

From London, Eurostar is the best, cheapest, greenest way and within two and a half hours you are in central Paris. Once you hit the Gare du Nord go downstairs and take the metro (only 1.60 euro for a single ticket) line 4 to Strasbourg St-Denis, line 8 to Concorde and then go one stop along line 1 to Champs Elysees Clemenceau.

OK. WE’RE HERE.

There are interesting diversions all around the 8th for the inquisitive visitor. Immediately to the north of the Champs Elysees is the Elysee Palace – where the President sits, unless he’s at lunch across the street in Le Bristol Hotel. This is where grandeur and wide boulevards mix with interesting little streets of chic shops and elegant government buildings. It’s only a ten minute walk after that to Madeleine, or the department stores of Boulevard Haussmann beyond which can be found the quiet little Parc Monceau - perfect picnic territory.

To the south lies the Triangle D’Or – The Golden Triangle - the haute couture ‘hood bounded by Avenues Montaigne and George V. High fashion heaven.

Don’t expect the 8th to offer many bargains, it’s an interesting and very pleasant area, but it ain’t cheap.

STAY WHERE?

At the very centre of The Golden Triangle, where dress prices are, shall we say, towards the top end of the fashion food chain, is Rue du Tremoille, a relatively normal sidestreet of small shops and restaurants, where you'll find the Hotel Tremoille, part of the Preferred Hotels Group,  as central and pleasant as it gets around here. The multi lingual staff are on the ball: welcoming, informal and charming, the lobby abuzz with business chatter from quiet alcoves which stretch towards the bar, effortlessly elegant, which is de rigeur in this area.

It’s a largish, (88 rooms plus 5 suites) discreet establishment where modernity has slipped in almost unnoticed under the traditional décor without fuss, as welcoming to the leisure traveller as the phalanx of fashionistas and attendant suits who flow through here in fashion week. Fully restored only a few years ago, the 19th century Hausmann façade shines like new, with classic wrought iron balustrades and cornicing, perfectly in tune with the principles and style of Parisian city centre architectural uniformity.

Inside the most distinctive feature is the ‘hatch’ in every room, where deliveries from room service and housekeeping are made without disturbance to guests, a particularly welcome feature when ordering an early breakfast in bed. The rooms and suites are large and comfortable with Wi-Fi, plasma screens, walk in power showers and plenty of natural light – the higher floors look across the rooftops towards the Eiffel Tower. The beds are huge, puffed up with luxurious pillows, the slippers and robes fluffy and soft. This is one of those rare city centre hotels where you’re tempted to stay in rather than feel obliged to go out and explore.

Prices are never cheap in this area but in these austere times a glance at the website currently features €200 off per night for standard rooms, a rare treat in an otherwise uncompromising district.

REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL, 1, 2, 3...

(1)    Shopping. This is top drawer retail therapy so expect a great deal of window shopping, trying on, and indecision from your partner along the way. Avenue Montaigne has every big name brand you can think of, charming doormen, price tags to make your eyes water, and a never ending succession of ladies with small dogs. They're all here, Bulgari and Dolce and Gabbana have put particular effort into their exterior design, but Prada, Gucci, Versace and Chanel sit discreet and quiet behind their classical facades Teenage fashion victims have been known to parade along here collecting the catalogues and elegant bags without spending a single euro.

Centre stage for espresso, snacking and lunch is the Costes Brothers' see and be seen L'Avenue where a strict door policy operates - the chic and beautiful are given window seats, the rest are unceremoniously herded to the back. It doesn't really matter what a coffee costs here, this is Victorian style promenading for the 21st Century.

(2)    The Champs Elysees may be familiar to the world but it still holds the odd surprise. In the Louis Vuitton flagship store there's a blacked out lift (totally blacked out, no light whatsoever) with a soft, furry lining which is the oddest ride in town. In fact it's just plain spooky. It slowly glides to the top floor (you can't hear, feel or see anything during the ride, you don't even know you're moving), to an astounding, cutting edge art gallery with changing, international shows. Entry via the shop requires an assistant but there's also a secret entrance at 60 rue de Bassano.

At the corner of Avenue Montaigne, don't ignore the imposing 19th century building set back behind the railings - this is Artcurial, a ‘temple of the arts' owned by an auction house with a quite staggering  library of the biggest collection of  books and catalogues covering all manner of art, architecture and photography. Far greater assortment than any bookshop you're likely to visit. Exhibitions of rare works too.

And over the road to the park (just off Avenue Matignon) you'll find one of those Parisian entertainments from another era, the open air puppet Theatre Guignol which performs at 3, 4, and 5pm. Suitable for children of all ages, up to about 90, I'd say.

(3)    On the North Eastern edge of the 8th, beyond the Champs Elysees, you can easily find Madeleine, one of the most signposted tourist spots in Paris. The square is dominated by the church - it really is well worth a visit as the construction took 90 years and straddled the French Revolution where attitudes to religion changed dramatically. The square is where Paris's first gourmet restaurants appeared and haute cuisine traditions are continued in Fauchon, an upmarket food store which doesn't even attempt normal groceries anymore - think foie gras, champagne, chocolates etc etc - unlike it's neighbour, the bright red Hediard where in addition to an array of expensive high class tea, you can find gourmet presents aplenty - at a price.

But the real charm of Madeleine is hidden underground. The Public Toilets (at the south eastern corner) are, would you believe, an absolute delight. More or less unisex - a discreet partition guards gentlemen's privacy - the cubicles are just the start. Display cases show off all manner of objects and postcards which have been sent to the attendant who sits in what can only be described as an office. They're free, too, and are the Weekender's No 1 spot for a visit in the area.

LET'S DO LUNCH

Cheap?

Paris Is filled with traiteurs just waiting to offer you goodies for a picnic or an elegant takeout lunch, windows filled with oeufs en gelee, pate de foie gras, celeriac remoulade. On of the most elegant in the Golden Triangle is Vignon at 14 Rue Marbeuf, whose three adjoining stores (fresh fruit and veg, wine, and deli) will offer you anything you might want - a menu for complete meals , La Gazette du Gastronome, is helpfully available at the door -  at a price. Beware, their fabulous foie gras maison is €250 per kilo (that's about €25 per slice!) but otherwise prices are near to normal and the food is delectable. They do excellent Iberian ham but over the road (Rue Clement Marot) is the real deal in Jabugo Iberico who will cut you a few slices to take away or enjoy with a bright little rioja.

Not so cheap

Along Avenue Montaigne there are two bistros of note, the Bar des Theatres (opposite the Theatre des Champs Élysées) which is where people who live and work in the area congregate for lunch and at the other end of the Avenue, hidden behind Chanel on Rue Bayard is Savy an elderly little bistro which is scruffy and characterful. The Weekender has been eating in both establishments for many years and enjoys the conviviality and the (relatively) plain food. Steak frites etc.
 
Not cheap but worthwhile

Along Rue Marbeuf the guidebooks will lead you inexorably towards either Fermette Marbeuf or Le Relais de l'Entrecote, both of which are fine. However highly recommended is Chez Andre, for both lunch and dinner, a classic bistro serving the area since 1936. Shellfish display outside, timeless faded décor inside with a changing roster of daily specials from choucroute de poisson (€22), Boullabaise (€27), and Pot au Feu (€22) with carafes of various excellent house wines at €12. A house special is Rognons de Veau (€22) which is not for the faint hearted since it is served whole, with meltingly soft and delicious buttery puree de pommes de terre. Populated by a mixed local crowd of residents and office workers this is an excellent lunchtime treat, with seats outside in sunny weather an added bonus.

AN APERITIF

There is the option of a glass of house wine at the Plaza Athenee for €24 but a few steps away, a cheaper, but also more poignant glass of fizz can be found at Chez Francis, where Avenue Montaigne meets Place de l'Alba on the river (as recommended in The Weekender Guide to the 16th). This veteran establishment is comfortable inside and out, with an excellent view of the Eiffel Tower. It also looks across to a statue of a golden flame, created to commemorate the death of Princess Diana, whose car crash in the tunnel underneath galvanized the world.

DINNER IS SERVED

The options in the 8th are limitless, but Rue Marbeuf is a favourite for both affordable lunch (see above) and dinner (see Guide to the 16th).

Unquestionably the most expensive dish the Weekender has come across is the poulet de bresse (fabulous chicken) in Le Hotel Bristol which costs an almighty €240 for two (people, not chickens), although technically this is capped at The Plaza Athenee where Alain Ducassse serves his poulet de bresse at €175 per person. This is Three Star Michelin Dining in Paris. It's your choice.

Back down on planet earth there is a wealth of attractive looking noisy Parisian style establishments on every street, at every corner, this is tourist central after all. But the best book on Paris dining, Hungry for Paris, recommends two which I can heartily second. L'Abordage near Gare St Lazare may not be much to look at but the classic French food's excellent. Bizarrely the only night it's open for dinner is Wednesday. In fact it doesn't even open for lunch Saturday and Sunday. So apologies if you're reading this looking for a Friday night table!

More readily accessible (and open) is Le Maxan near the Élysée Palace which serves delicious, memorable French cuisine at affordable prices.

DRIVE BUY

Paris remains the capital of the individual shop, selling goods not available elsewhere, even in London, in chains, or replicated further downmarket. The 8th is particularly rich in these.

For the Sweet-Toothed...

Chocolate isn't just a sweet for occasional nibbling, Parisians would be quite horrified at the ‘glass-and-a-half idea and are quite obsessed with the real thing; so forget sweet shops, think L'artisan Chocolatier Confiseur, such as Fouquet off Avenue Montaigne on rue Francois 1er. Since 1852, 5 generations of this same family have been making an assortment of chocolates without the addition of vegetable fats but with various fruits and nuts truffles, nougats, and toffees (Salvators).

There are quite dazzling chocolatiers all over the 8th, De Neuville at 25 Rue Marbeuf and of course Fauchon at Place de la Madeleine.

The Weekender's favourite is Jadis et Gourmande, at 27 rue Boissy d'Anglais (near Madeleine) which will make novelty boxes up for you spelling out a loved one's name. Not expensive either.

For the Tippler...

Near Madeleine is one of Paris's finest individual vintage wine and spirit merchants, Au Verger de la Madeleine at 4 Boulevard Malesherbes which has been serving old and new since 1937 from this odd shaped, triangular shop and cellar. The wonders of vintage  wine, Armagnac and Eaux de vie are revealed here alongside new, unheard of French wines yet to be recognized. They have an excellent website but the shop is better. If you manage to escape without buying, have a drink next door in one Paris's finer bars, The Forum.

For the Rambler

Parisians may often emulate English style, Barbour jackets being a favourite, but their own version is to be found at Mettez, 12 Boulevard Malesherbes, where the waterproof has been developed over the years into a variety of styles, the hunting jacket, Austrian style caps and coats aplenty. It's been trading since 1847, so they can hardly be accused of jumping on the style anglais bandwagon.

For the Twirler

Hair accessory shops abound in every mall and shopping arcade for girls to enhance their tresses. The real deal is to be found at 25 Rue Faubourg St Honore, just a flick of the mane from the Élysée Palace and Le Hotel Bristol. At No 122, Bijoux de Coiffure sells every clasp, comb, crunchie, grip and adornment for hair known to womankind. Weekender has no idea if that's where Carla Bruni pops out to buy her scrunchies.

For the Scribbler

Prime Minister Gordon Brown gave President Obama a gift of a pen holder. Nice. Well find the tiny rue Quentin Bauchart off the Champs Elysees and at  No 21 there is Point Plume, an even tinier store crammed with the most delightful, decorated, ornate silvered and gold plated pens, holders, and ‘ceramic pen supports' in the guise of soldiers and Samurai warriors.