24 hours in Istanbul

Let’s be honest. It’s a crime to spend so little time in a city as rich as Istanbul – but if you’re on a short break, it’s possible to pack in the pick of the city’s gems in a day.

Morning: Sightseeing.
Start at the Hippodrome in the old quarter of Sultanahmet. The old chariot racetrack (and site for days-long circumcision ceremonies!) is now the site of three historic columns. The Serpent column, originally known as the Tripod of Plataea, dates back to the 5th century BC and was brought to the city from Delphi, while the nearby pink granite obelisk of Thutmose was transported from Karnak. Today, only the top section survives, but is still in surprisingly good condition, especially compared to the walled obelisk, which was stripped of its bronze plaques by crusaders.

But it’s the iconic buildings at either end of the Hippodrome which are two of the city’s most famous and visited. The famous Blue Mosque, with its six minarets and the intricate coloured tiles which give it its name, is still a place of worship, so both men and women have to dress appropriately and it’s closed to visitors during prayer. Opposite is the 1500-year-old Hagia Sophia, once the largest cathedral in the world, until the fall of Constantinople when it was converted into a mosque. Today it’s a museum, so try to arrive early to avoid the crowds admiring the dome and the stunning mosaics.

Over the road is one of the city’s less well-known gems, the Basilica Cistern. The echoing cistern’s columns, including two carved heads reflecting in the still water, featured in Bond film From Russia With Love – and as a bonus, it’s one of the coolest places in the city during the summer.

Then head up the hill behind Hagia Sophia, to the Topkapi Palace, home of the Sultans and the world’s most famous harem – put your imagination to work in the echoing passageways and rooms to visualise the gilded prison which housed so many women, then admire the ornate decoration and furnishing in the Sultan and his mother’s chambers. Beyond the exhibitions, both military and ornamental, head to the outer walls for a view across the Bosphorus and some of the quieter parts of the palace, including the fabulous golden Breakfast Pavilion, where the Sultan could survey his domain.

Afternoon: shop til you drop.
Stop for a quick lunch at the peaceful garden restaurant of Konuk Evi and a browse in Kalici (plus a chat with owner Mehmet), both on Sogukcesme Sokak, before wandering further downhill on Alemdar Caddesi towards Hamidiye Caddesi and the original Turkish delight shop, Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir. Even if you don’t normally enjoy the rose-flavoured sweet, you shouldn’t miss the incredible array of flavours here and stock up on presents.

Last but certainly not least, it’s time to hit the bazaars – start at the smaller Spice Bazaar, for cut-price saffron and herbal teas, then brace yourself for the Grand Bazaar, a sprawling maze of stalls packed with everything from belly-dancing costumes and jewellery to carpets and leather. Go armed with a map, but expect to get lost as you wander around.

You’ll find everything you were looking for and plenty more that you never expected to want. Filter through the tourist tat and you can find more than a few bargains – if you’re planning to spend on gold or antiques, do your research in advance though. And don’t forget to haggle. You’re up against the experts though, so cast aside any inhibitions, suggest prices with a smile and enjoy every minute.

Finish your day with a well-deserved blow-out. Circle back round to behind the Blue Mosque for dinner at Rami on Utangac Sokkak, which specialises in Ottoman cuisine. Try the Imam Bayildi, stuffed aubergine - so delicious, the original Imam who tried it fainted, giving it its name. You might not be as overcome, but there’s no better way to end your day – and start planning your next trip.