Peschiera Maraglio, Monte Isola (Iseo)
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The largest inhabited lake island in Europe, Lake Iseo’s Monte Isola is a place to get away from it all.
It’s car free – only the local doctor, mayor and police are allowed four wheels – so there’s none of the usual Italian revving of engines and tooting of horns, just the puttering and whizzing sounds of mopeds and Vespas owned by its 1,800 inhabitants. The island is also easily navigable on foot because it’s only 3km long and 600m above sea level at its highest point. If you don’t want to walk you can hire a bicycle on the island.
Monte Isola is a pleasant place to wander around with fabulous views of the lake and its islands set against the spectacular backdrop of the surrounding mountains, and the island's slopes are home to several small villages surrounded by olive trees, vineyards and chestnut groves. A walk to the mountain peak and its sixteenth-century Madonna della Ceriola shrine takes about 90 minutes.
The tiny port of Peschiera Maraglio is one of several picturesque villages on the island and where visitors arrive via regular boat services from Iseo and Sulzano on the eastern shore of the lake in the province of Brescia. Its narrow winding alleys hide cafés, restaurants and the small Baroque church of San Michele notable for its frescoes and wooden carvings. The buildings' sloping roofs, wooden shutters and wrought-iron balconies festooned with flowers give the village an almost alpine feel.
Peschiera Maraglio came to life in the late fourteenth century and up until 30 years ago its main industry was fishing, and locals plundered the lake’s resources that include carp, eel, crayfish and trout. The fishing fleet consists of long, thin boats pointed at either end known as ‘naecc’ in the local dialect, which are modelled on the Venetian gondola. Now fishermen once used to making rope nets have used their skills to diversify into making nylon nets for soccer pitches and tennis courts. Fishing still takes place, and in the middle of June you can see freshwater sardines and scardola hanging out to dry in the sun on arched wooden frames scattered along the side of the lake.
Although miniscule, the village’s charm makes it worth visiting and the perfect place to spend an evening having a lazy passeggiata taking in the view en route, and if you are doing a tour of the Italian Lakes it provides the perfect opportunity to escape from the tourist hordes.
Useful links
Brescia Tourism
Lake Iseo boat service
Monte Isola Tourist Board
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