Myth, murder and models in the Cotswolds
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Picture postcard villages, beautiful countryside - even the names in the Cotswolds are picturesque (Stow-on-the-Wold, Bourton-on-the-Water, Upper and Lower Slaughter).
But if you take detour to the South Cotswolds, you might not spot Kate Moss, who has a home in the region, but there are plenty of other stars.
Well, few areas of the UK can boast a castle which saw the murder of a king, a 2,000-year-old tree and a pub frequented by a renowned poet among its attractions.
Base yourself in Painswick, dubbed the ‘Queen of the Cotswolds’, where despite its archetypal honey-coloured stone and centuries-old buildings, you can avoid the worse of the visiting hordes.
Start with St Mary’s Church, whose sprawling graveyard, with its raised 17th century tombs, is famous for its yew trees. For years there were only ever 99 in the grounds, as legend told that if there were a hundredth, The Devil would appear to shrivel it – the extra one was planted for the Millennium, but so far Old Scratch has stayed away.
Then see where a real-life devil met his end at Berkeley Castle – a bit harsh perhaps, but history has not been kind to King Edward II, whose disastrous reign ended in a peculiarly medieval way with a red-hot poker.
The same family has lived there for 900 years, making it the oldest castle in Britain which can claim this continuity, but its main claim to notoriety is the cell where the 14th century king was held, while you can still see the original 12th century keep, the old kitchens, and many of the original decorations and portraits.
If you’re still looking for a little celebrity action, head to the haunt of a true talent in the village of Slad, where poet and author Laurie Lee used to drink in the Woolpack pub.
Get there early, as it’s hugely popular with locals and visitors, and fills up fast thanks to its literary prestige, stunning views over the valley and some very drinkable cider, in honour of Lee’s most famous work.
Useful links
Cotswolds Tourism
Information about Berkeley Castle
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