Whale watching, Vancouver
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The ocean cruiser King Salmon fast-forwards from Victoria’s harbour, heading out to where orca (killer) whales have been spotted. Common murr, long-billed and haughty, ride the waves. Heads held high, they communicate in a singsong chatter.
We’re into waters between Canada and the United States. The deep blue ocean is strung with islands; cloud wisps across a pale sky. To starboard, the horizon is hung with the blue-grey serrated mountain peaks on Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula. On the port side, snow-shrouded Mount Baker looks magnificent in the distance.
We see them coming from afar. Orcas. The boat’s engines are stilled, a hydraphone is dropped into the deep, and through loudspeakers on deck, we hear the whales’ song.
Our naturalist guide tells us there are three resident orca pods, totalling more than 80 whales, in this area, that they breed between pods and that all three ‘speak’ the same language, though with slightly different dialects. He says he can identify individual whales because each dorsal fin is unique, like fingerprints in humans. Fast swimmers, they can easily cover 100 miles in a day.
And suddenly they are all around us, breaching and diving. It’s all happening so fast and I quickly abandon the idea of capturing the action on camera. They are massive creatures – singles, couples and one group of five – rising in the water in unison in an incredible display that leaves watchers breathless.
And then they’re gone.
We’re speeding back when the boat’s skipper spies more orcas having a feeding frenzy off the suitably named Salmon Bank. He takes us on a quick detour. Once more we’re in a sea boiling with great bodies porpoising off the boat’s bow in a dance that could have been choreographed.
Finally King Salmon sails among rocky islands where turkey vultures soar, cormorants keep a watchful eye over kayakers and sailboats anchor in quiet creeks. Victoria’s splendid waterfront hoves into view. We’re back in time to catch a brilliant sunset.
Contact tel: +12503862277, e-mail:
Cost adult ticket: £20+ pp
Useful links
Great Pacific Adventures - Whale Watching, Victoria
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