Manali: Top five things to do in the hot springs village of Vashisht

Vashisht is a cheery, laid-back village on the slopes above the Beas River in the Kullu Valley. It is small enough to explore thoroughly on foot with some charming wood and stone buildings hidden on the slopes behind the main square. The ground floors are usually used to house cows and other farm animals, while the ornate upper floors are the family home.

The Kullu Valley is known mainly for two things: mountain views and the local charas (hashish). Manali, the nearest town to Vashisht, used to be a quiet place, with only a few residents and temples but in the 1960s the hippies arrived, and Manali evolved into one of India’s most popular backpacker centres. Nearby Vashisht still retains the feel of a Himachali mountain village, making it perfect for sitting back and taking in the views. Whilst there, be sure to do the following:

1. Wash in the public baths

Our hostel didn’t have any hot running water, but it was only steps away from the ancient Vashisht Mandir, which contains two public baths – one for men and one for women. Entry is free, the water is piping hot and there is no ceiling so you can watch the clouds scud past the mountain tops as you scrub. When I visited, the bath water was so hot I felt like it stripped the skin off my shins, but I left feeling cleaner than ever before. Cover yourself with a baggy T-shirt or simply strip to your underpants then rinse off under the taps to the side of the main bath; it is fine to use soap and shampoo. Once you are scrubbed spotless, go next door to see Rama Temple, an intricately decorated wood and stone building.

2. Trek to the waterfalls

Vashisht is surrounded by snow-capped mountains and all that melt water has created some spectacular waterfalls. The path running behind the Dharma Guesthouse leads to two waterfalls. It’s a tough climb but the views across the stone-tiled rooftops of Vashisht and the Beas River beyond are worth it. You can bathe underneath the second waterfall. We also found ourselves walking right through a field of seven-feet tall marijuana plants...

3. Kick back with some traditional music

The World Peace Café (above Hotel Surabhi) runs traditional music nights every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. We went on a Friday night when two professional musicians from Varanasi put on an excellent tabla and sitar performance. Low tables with cushion seating surround the stage and you can eat and drink as you recline and listen. Afterwards, the stage is opened up to anyone who wants to join in. A variety of instruments is on offer, including bass and electric guitars; you don’t have to play a typically Indian instrument to take part. The World Peace Café also runs music lessons on traditional Indian instruments and those who have had one or two are encouraged to join in.

4. Get your adrenaline flowing

Vashisht (along with Manali) is rapidly becoming known as one of India’s best destinations for adventure sports. Mountain biking, white-water rafting, rock climbing, paragliding, zorbing and trekking are all up for grabs. One of Vashisht’s best adventure sports tour operators is the Himalayan Extreme Center. I recommend a jeep safari to Leh. Struggling over some of the highest mountain passes in the world, the road from Vashisht to Leh is rough but the Himalayan views are spectacular. The journey can be done over two or three days and you need to be aware of the dangers of acute mountain sickness.

5. Day trip to Manali

The buzz of Manali is just the thing to draw you out of the pleasant languor peaceful Vashsisht induces. Auto-rickshaws ply the road between the two, or you can follow a footpath down to the river. Most of the action takes place along The Mall: restaurants and tour operators thrive here and there is plenty of good shopping to be done, from pashmina scarves to thangkas (intricate Buddhist paintings). Nearby Hadimba Temple is also worth a visit.