Umaid Bhawan, Jaipur: luxury heritage on a budget
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It is not often that you discover a hotel that is quirky, well-placed and affordable but the Umaid Bhawan hotel in Jaipur is a rare find.
One of India’s famous heritage hotels, Umaid Bhawan is located in Jaipur’s leafy Bani Park area, only a short rickshaw ride from the centre of the Pink City. Now owned by Wing Commander Bhim Singh Rathore, the building dates from the 1920s and was once the home of a Rajasthani royal family. The interior has been painstakingly restored: ceilings and pillars are beautifully stencilled with bright flowers and triple-topped arches are everywhere, giving the hotel a labyrinthine feel. Scattered among the 39 rooms and suites are numerous shared balconies, furnished with low tables and cushioned chairs for guests to relax. Each room is unique and most have private balconies.
My air-conditioned Royal Deluxe room had no fewer than three painted arches, one pillar, five arched windows, two alcoves, Sky TV, mini bar, safe, telephone, writing desk, two easy chairs, en suite with monsoon showerhead and a four-poster bed with a great view of the ornately painted ceiling. Instead of a balcony, it opens on to a shared courtyard with fair-sized swimming pool. All this, plus breakfast, for Rps 1800 – currently about £22. I also took advantage of the prompt and very reasonably priced laundry service and WiFi, which is available throughout the hotel at Rp1 per minute.
The crowning glory of the Umaid Bhawan is the rooftop restaurant. An excellent breakfast buffet, including Indian, Western and healthy options, is served here every morning. The Fort View Restaurant (open to non-residents) serves tasty food but is over priced for the size of portion received and would benefit from more-frequently changed tablecloths. A tandoori barbeque spills atmospheric smoke across the scene and the waiters are friendly. For those wanting a stronger tipple than beer, the Umaid Mahal’s Polo Bar provides the perfect venue, with spirits and cocktails. Free transport for the 400m distance is laid on, as are free train and bus station transfers. Reception will also arrange Ayurvedic massages, facials and oil therapy baths at Kerala Aurveda Kendra, which also offers Ayurvedic training courses.
Excellently positioned for exploring all of Jaipur’s sights, including Amber Fort, Old City, Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) and Jantar Mantar (observatory), Umaid Bhawan is too good to ignore.
Behari Marg, Via Bank Road D1-2A, Jaipur, India
Contact tel: +91 141 220 6426 / 1276 , e-mail:
Cost suite: £50 per night
Services swimming pool, hotel restaurant, hotel bar, room service, business services, internet access
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