Chandelao village: off the beaten track in well-trodden Rajasthan
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Rajasthan is one of India’s most visited states, and deservedly so. Tourists travel the manageable distance from Delhi to admire dazzling saris offset by the parched desert and colourful turbans bobbing on heads alongside awesome monuments. The proliferation of sights - Jodhpur’s Meherangarh Fort, the holy city of Pushkar, pink-hued Jaipur’s Amber Fort, the living fort of Jaisalmer and the Great Thar Desert to name a few - means escaping Rajasthan’s tourist crowds can be difficult, but with a bit of effort it’s far from impossible.
Chandelao is a small village an hour east of Jodhpur. The 350-year-old Chandelao Garh is the place to stay. The heritage fort’s 18 rooms are set around a bird-song filled courtyard. All of the rooms are different, furnished with period furniture belonging to the family who have owned the fort for generations. Home-cooked meals are served on the roof terrace with views of the desert and uninterrupted sky as appetising side dishes.
Perhaps the most appealing thing about staying at Chandelao Garh, though, is that by doing so you are supporting the community work in which the owner, Praduman Singh, is heavily involved. With the help of Imaginative Traveller (who are the only UK-based tour operator to visit Chandelao) and a local NGO, Praduman plays an active role in supporting girls’ education and contributing to improvements in water collection systems in Chandelao school and the surrounding villages. As a visitor, these efforts are most clearly seen by taking the short stroll to Sunder Rang, a project that empowers the village’s women whilst promoting and maintaining knowledge of local crafts. Here you can watch quilts, pillow cases and trinkets being made, from stitching to embroidery and you can buy everything made by the women in the centre’s shop.
When you’ve spent your cash and your heart is a-glow with all that goodwill, it’s time to explore the local area. Chandelao Garh runs village safaris in a unique open-sided jeep that takes you through nearby villages and the desert countryside to visit the head of a local tribe (he’s rather partial to opium so expect to be offered a sip of opium tea) and a pottery where you can try your hand on the potter’s wheel. There’s also a good chance of spotting some local wildlife along the way, from India’s national bird, the peacock, to gazelles and the odd-looking nilgai, also known as blue bull, Asia’s largest antelope.
If you can drag yourself out of bed early enough, you can walk to the village well to see the women collect the day’s water. The elegant sway of a body swathed in impossibly bright saris with a silver pot or three balanced on the head is an unforgettable sight, and one that’s hard to find in the usual tourist haunts.
Independent travellers can stay at Chandelao Garh for approximately Rps2,000 per night. Chandelao is one of Imaginative Traveller’s responsible travel projects and a night in Chandelao Garh is included in some tour itineraries. I visited as part of the Rajasthan Safari tour.
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Rajasthan is one of the most famous and popular tourist destination. Rajasthan is known to have a rich culture and a large number of historic monuments, forts and other tourist places. Golden Triangle Tour