Reads Hotel and Vespasian Spa, Mallorca

For many people the sun-kissed holiday island of Mallorca continues to have the overly-generalised Picassoesque image of typical visitors (18 – 30 British clubbers seeking sand, sun and sangria) which unfortunately distorts the true picture. As I discovered on my first visit here, Palma is stunningly attractive with its Gothic cathedral, smart shops and glamorous St Tropez-style marina.  Explore further afield around the coast and inland to find the real Mallorca with its charming laid back identity rich in heritage, natural beauty and culture far from the madding party crowds.

The year-round warm climate with long sunny days is ideal for outdoor biking and hiking adventures, tour villages and vineyards, indulge in a chill out spa break and gourmand fine dining. A little known fact - there are more Michelin star restaurants on this island than in Madrid! 

You can experience all this and more at Reads Hotel and Spa, surrounded by verdant landscaped gardens, its own vineyard and olive grove in the foothills of the towering Tramuntana mountains. 

A Place in the Spanish Sun 

The story behind Reads is the stuff of fiction, a kind of contemporary fairy tale. Think of all those TV reality programmes, “The Restaurant”, “A Place in the Sun”, “Hotel Rescue” – thousands of people seem to relish the idea of owning a restaurant or hotel. The Read family also had that dream. London solicitor Vivian Read enjoyed family holidays at their villa in Mallorca. Then in 1988 an abandoned, derelict 17th century mansion on the Ca´n Moragues estate came up for sale and Mr Read decided to give up his career, move to Mallorca, buy the estate and develop a luxury rural resort.

Over seven years, the house, farm buildings and garden were painstakingly rebuilt, restored and refurbished to create a deluxe boutique country house, two restaurants and spa. It has been a personal labour of love for all the family, for Vivian, his wife Iris, son Marcus and daughter Simone. A fine collection of antiques, furnishings and fabrics from North African souks, English porcelain, contemporary artwork and exquisite hand painted murals, all blend as an incongruous, occasionally eccentric, design statement within the ancient pink and ochre rustic farmhouse.

Sumptuous accommodation in 23 elegant bedrooms and suites are located in the main house and courtyard cottages with classic and contemporary styles, all featuring ornate carved beds, flagstone floors, oriental rugs, palatial bathrooms with baths and showers; homely comforts include Molton Brown toiletries and Bang and Olufsen TVs. The graciously decorated and themed Suites are mini-apartments with private sitting rooms and outdoor terraces. Guests are welcomed by the Reads - not forgetting their friendly dog, Mr Brown - with exemplary hospitality such as optional chauffeur drive from the airport or local railway station and a chilled bottle of bubbly awaiting your arrival.  

All around guests may explore the pretty gardens and orchards, manicured lawns, topiary, fish ponds, avenues of almond trees (the white blossom blooms like snow in January), and colourful display of bougainvillea, roses and wild flowers through the seasons.

Eating and Drinking

As a member of the exclusive Relais & Chateaux collection of private hotels, you can expect to eat like royalty at Reads.  Since 2003 the hotel has held a Michelin star for cuisine at its Bacchus restaurant, located in the cavernous high vaulted hall decorated with Greek-inspired frescoes. Fresh local produce - sea bream, rabbit, lamb, garden herbs, vegetables, citrus fruit, berries - is highlighted on the distinctive gourmet menu.

Alternatively dine in Bistro 33 within the 18th century olive press room, serving Mediterranean lobster, crab and tuna, many dishes spiced up Asian style. The added bonus to the culinary experience is that Reads also produces their own range of blanco, rosado and tinto vinos from their own vineyard.

I visited Reads for lunch, sitting outside on the garden terrace beside the swimming pool under the shade of palm and cypress trees. From the Bistro 33 appetising summer menu of salads, pasta, seafood and chicken, I started with Langustino ensalada – succulent char grilled tiger prawns smothered with green leaves, slices of melon, avocado and zest of lime artistically presented in a black square bowl. Also sampled was a platter of quality amber-pink smoked salmon. Next I selected a tasty wild mushroom ravioli, drizzled with fresh pesto, while my travel companion quickly devoured a plate of Cod on a bed of squid ink risotto. This was a gourmet feast and all the more delectable sitting outside in the late September sunshine, sipping a glass or two of Reads ice cold Ablaflor blanc.

Food is taken very seriously at Bacchus: there’s the opportunity for a party of six diners to sit at the Chef’s Table in the kitchen to observe Head Chef Felix Eschrich and his team at work. And if you enjoy cooking or want to learn more, there are four day cookery class packages to learn the art of buying food at the market and preparing fine cuisine. Alternatively sign up for the ultimate Masterchef challenge, working for a day under the guidance of the Head Chef in this Michelin star kitchen. 

A haven of relaxation

The fabulous Vespasian Spa is a temple to health and wellbeing has a herbal steam room, sauna and Laconinium, then chill off in the ice room. There are two large outdoor and indoor pools (perfect for summer and winter visits), plus a hydro pool with pressure jets to massage aching shoulders. Book an Espa or Ytsara therapeutic or beauty treatment from a menu of body massages, wraps and facials for men and women. You can also arrange for a soothing body scrub or detoxifying seaweed bath ritual in the privacy of your bedroom.  Vespasian Spa has been selected as one of the top European spas by wellness travel experts, SIS (Spa in Spain).

On this visit we experienced two superb treatments: for me, an Espa age-defyer facial which seemed much more than the usual superficial cleanse and polish. My therapist Romey used a firm pressure technique to massage the skin deep into the facial muscle after a gentle exfoliation. While the mask set, I enjoyed a hand and head massage. Meanwhile my partner had his skin brushed, pummelled and massaged with hot stones, all part of an Oriental Chakra healing treatment to balance the senses of body, mind and soul.  

After all the eating and drinking, some exercise might be in order. Keep fit in the gym, swing a racket on the all weather tennis court, or, especially in the winter months, go cycling in the surrounding countryside. Mallorca is now a popular cycling destination with individuals and groups coming to train around the Tramuntana mountains. As a key cycling centre, professional events, training camps and Dutch Giant bicycles can be arranged at the hotel, complemented with relaxation in the Vespasian Spa. The hotel also organises tee times at several Golf courses on the island.

There is only one rule at Reads: No children under 12. So you can be assured there will be no little kids splashing around the pool when you are snoozing at Siesta time.

Treat yourself to a Retreat at Reads

The beauty of the hotel’s cool and casual lifestyle is due to its complete authenticity as a home-from-home combined with personal professional attention by the Read family and their staff. Open all year, this hidden gem offers a getaway retreat for a summer holiday or winter break – simply fly out to Palma on a Friday night to experience a romantic weekend of fine dining and Spa pampering for the feel good factor. 

At its heart is a peaceful ambience which combines Mallorcan heritage with an exotic, calming, “yin & yang” setting. Reads is a unique sanctuary where guests can escape from the real world to relax and rewind. This tiny British colony in the middle of the Mediterranean should merit EU funding for luxury agro-tourism! Twenty one years on, Vivian Read’s vision has been beautifully created with quiet sophistication, theatrical style and natural harmony.