Durham’s Amazing Light Extravaganza, Lumiere
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Artificial moons and stars, a tree growing glass bells, a pair of couture gowns made entirely of lights - these were some of the enchantments on offer November 12-15, 2009 at Durham's fabulous, one-time-only Lumiere light festival.
More than 75,000 people flooded into this exquisite little university town, which despite being so tiny and relatively unknown has won a Best City in the UK award.
Why is obvious once you’ve seen the magnificent 1000-year-old cathedral and splendid medieval castle of England’s bishop princes. Not to mention the quaint cobbled streets lined with eclectic shops, the exquisite old buildings of England’s third oldest university and the U-shaped curve of the River Wear which surrounds the city with a beating green heart.
But light shows galore were the reason to come for that weekend in November. Visitors found the cathedral transformed with spectacular projections of the ancient Lindisfarne Gospels and the rooftops alive with giant stars. Across town, the Botanic Garden was turned into a nocturnal wonderland shimmering with ghostly deserted ballrooms, eerie sound sculptures and all manner of magical light installations including projections onto the trees themselves.
This show at the Botanic, Power Plant, was the hit of this year’s Edinburgh Festival before being recreated for Durham with new pieces. They included the exquisite tree hung with glass bells which make sounds that imitate the squeaking of pipistrelle bats.
The empty outdoor ballroom over which mirror balls spin madly over old gramophones set on the lawns was simply unforgettable.
This show was probably the most beautiful display in the festival. But the incredible 12-minute sound and light show over the cathedral played out every half hour between 6.30 and 10.30pm was the most spectacular. A specially-composed soundtrack recreated the sounds of the sea around Lindisfarne, thundering battles between Vikings and Christians and the sung prayers of the Benedictine monks who settled in Durham in the wake of St. Cuthbert, who brought Christianity to England.
Prize for the show’s most emotional display must go to the illuminated blow-ups of nine drawings by local prisoners set up on the green in the “college”, as Durham calls its cathedral close. Of these, the illustration named Outside by the banged-up convict who penned it was the most poignant.
The lit-up weirs, riverbanks and subterranean arches were all fabulous, and the most innovative display must have been the dustbins full of light sticks. In Durham, no aspect of city life was considered too humble to be celebrated in light.
That went too for the people of Durham themselves. One hundred locals, from babies to near-centenarians, had their faces projected on the ancient medieval buildings of the market square every night of the festival. This was a great place to grab some hog roast and a cappuccino or hot chocolate as fortification against any rain or wind which may have prevailed.
Speaking as one who got soaked as they stood enthralled to the unveiling of the cathedral transformation, it was worth braving any kind of weather to see this show.
One reason the city invested such a huge sum in mounting Lumiere was to showcase Durham, one of Britain’s real hidden gems, and launch its bid to become the UK’s first City of Culture in 2013.
If they can mount a festival as spectacular as this, they absolutely deserve the title.
Durham are now planning to reprise the £500,000 festival every 2 years, though with new installations.
Useful links
Durham Lumiere Light Festival
Enlightenment - Durham International Light Festival
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