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Istria, Croatia

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recommended by Lucy Daltroff
Istria, Croatia
  Mountain villages in Istria, Croatia © Lucy Daltroff

I didn't quite know where Istria was when my husband first suggested it as a holiday destination. I soon realised it is the attractive peninsular area shared by Italy, and Slovenia, although most falls into Croatian territory. The turquoise sea of the Adriatic with its indented coast full of bays and islets is a great holiday destination so it seems strange that the majority of people bypass the area on their way to Dubrovnik. I spoke to Dario receptionist at our hotel who explained

 

"Twenty years ago just before the war that split Yugoslavia - in which Istria played no part - 33% of the tourists here were British, now it is less than 3%.  They just have not returned in any real numbers"

 

It is a shame, with the glorious villages and the extremely clear sea there is so much to offer. An important tourist area is around Porec and not far away is the stalagmites and stalactites of the famous Baredine Cave. It has five halls, and five galleries of abstract and realistic sculptures, and it is possible to see the miniature see-through crabs and insects, which only live in this specialised environment.

 

Along the coast is a whole series of beautiful seaside communities. We visited the historic little town of Novigrad situated in a narrow bay known for its Mediterranean architecture. Perhaps most importantly it is famous for its copious fish and shellfish, which is why the town's fisherman are so well known.

 

Pula is another important tourist area, the biggest town in Istria. Besides being host to famous musicians in its amphitheatre, which is the 6th largest in the world, it has a number of other Roman remains and some outstanding restaurants of international repute.

 

After a time staying by the coast we decided to hire a car and drive to a few unspoilt inland destinations and soon realised that everything is pretty near when you are mobile.

 

Our first visit was to the medieval hill town of Motovun where Italian is still spoken. We walked along the 12th century city walls and looked out at the incredible view for miles around. Taking in the hills where vines provides the grapes for the local Teran and Malvazija wine and beyond that, the forest, famous for its excellent black and white truffles. The steep streets have many little shops selling the truffles and also wine and its local pure olive oil. However I was at a bit of a loss how they could also accommodate the Annual Motovun Film Festival which is known for independent and avant garde films from both Europe and the States.

 

Further to the east is Hum, which has a population of only 17 people (2001 census), and is the Guinness World Record Holder for the smallest town in the world. Its size belies its thousand-year history with its town walls and fortifications. Apparently at the height of the summer it is quite overrun with tourists.

 

There were so many other inland villages and coastal delights that we just didn't have time to see on our short visit, so I look forward to returning in the foreseeable future. 

 

Useful links
Istria Official Tourism website



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