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It was a Saturday night in Galway and I was foot-tapping (actually, seat-squirming, since I was on a chair) to the sounds of Bolton-born Damon Gough (AKA Badly Drawn Boy) in the 'Live Lounge' of the Radisson Blu. There was something slightly surreal about the experience, because like Badly, I am from Greater Manchester, and I'd normally watch 'locals' play their gigs locally.

 

However, here I was instead in Ireland at the Galway Arts Festival, and how great that was. Until a few days before, I hadn't even known Galway had an arts festival, never mind that it was in its 33^rd year. But it was a last minute discovery, and I had flown in with bmibaby for a weekend break.

 

I felt immediately disappointed that I was not to be in Galway longer. The two-week festival programme is packed with an exceedingly impressive range of events, from performing arts and theatre, music and gigs, visual exhibitions, comedy line-ups and much more. And – as with Badly Drawn Boy - there is some excellent talent here. It is not a cast of 'wannabes' hoping to find some stardom.

 

Galway culture vultures

 

With so much on offer at this time of year, it didn't take long to start gallivanting in Galway. Friday night's entertainment was particularly outstanding, as I'd been to see The Corn Exchange’s production of Freefall at the Black Box Theatre.

 

This was a play which depicted a man's life flashing before his eyes, while he endured some kind of seizure following the breakdown of his marriage. Freefall produced tears from the audience through heart-felt performances and clever direction and staging. It was not a cheery number (and you'd be out of place shouting “he's behind you”) but there was humour entwined throughout its scripting.

 

Saturday morning was a relaxed affair starting with a late (and excellent) breakfast at the Radisson Blu before joining a walking tour with Fiona Brennan of Galway Walking Tours. It was an opportunity uncover Galway's hidden corners and get some bearings on the city (though it's not huge, so this wasn't difficult), as well as learn one of the suggested origins of the term 'lynching'.

 

There are a couple of possible historical sources for the origination of 'lynching', but many believe it comes from Galway. Story has it that in 1493, Mayor of Galway James Lynch Fitzstephen hanged his own son from the balcony of his house after convicting him of the murder of a Spanish visitor. You can see the skull and crossbones stonework marking the spot near St Nicholas' graveyard, where this allegedly took place (bearing in mind that we're talking about a 15^th century man and a 16^th century window!).

 

Feeling far more 'learned' about the woes and legends of lovely Galway city, Saturday afternoon was spent meandering some of the visual arts exhibitions that were taking place over different venues. A firm favourite for me was the intriguing and rather dark work of Alice Maher, exhibiting at the Galway Arts Centre, and I wished I had managed to see Spike Jonze's new film 'I'm Here' which was recommended to me (but our timings were out of sync).

 

The beautiful and quaint streets of Galway at this time of year are bursting with dance troops, fire-eaters, and buskers – with some street acts officially featuring in the programme, while others are ad hoc opportunists (and mostly good) looking to make a few bob among the crowds (although the man with a cardboard guitar saying 'plink plink' as he 'plucked' must, really, try harder).

 

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Galway anyway?

 

There is a lot in Galway to lure the culture vulture, but Arts Festival or not, it's the kind of place that's worth visiting at any time of year, and weekends are renowned for being especially lively.

 

Galway is earning itself a very well-deserved reputation as a foodie destination and has some excellent restaurant choices around town. Try McSwiggans for first rate service and food, but beware the gigantic Irish portions, and you'll find Nimmos – right by the Spanish Arch - to be quirky and fun, with delicious lobster on the menu.

 

In my humble opinion, Galway beats Dublin for nightlife – especially because the city is so compact. In fact, at night, it looks like everything in Galway is still open. That's simply because on the main streets, every other building is a pub, and the good old Irish craic spills out from every nook and cranny. Apparently, the pubs only close their doors when the last customers go home, which suits many, it seems.

 

Facts:

 

Galway Arts Festival runs for 2 weeks in July every year. The 2010 festival ended on 25^th July, but keep updated for next year by joining the mailing list at: http://www.galwayartsfestival.com

 

The Radisson Blu, where I stayed, is well located just a few minutes walk from the centre and is home to the 'Live Lounge', Galway's premier gig venue. For reservations, see: http://www.radissonhotelgalway.com

 

I reached Galway by flying from Birmingham Airport to West Knock with bmibaby.com, then transferring to Galway with Galway Bay Executive Coaches (+353 (0) 83 3101774).There is also a route to West Knock from Manchester, though it was surprisingly easy to travel from Birmingham. Book at:

http://www.bmibaby.com

 

See the Galway page on the Discover Ireland website: http://www.discoverireland.com/gb/ireland-places-to-go/counties/galway/

 

 

 

 

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