South Sands Hotel and Restaurant, Salcombe, Devon
Share
It's been a couple of years and a reputed £6m in the making, but the South Sands Hotel is clearly what visitors to Salcombe have been waiting for. Affluent locals and regular visitors alike pack the place out every night in summer. Some are propping up the cocktail bar; most are tucking into unpretentious but delicious fare at this new seafront hotel on South Sands.
Overlooking one of the few stretches of real beach in this resort known mainly for messing about on boats, the restaurant was always bound to be a goldmine. Huge but broken up into smaller, more intimate eating areas, it has a simple but chic seaside feel. Think white-painted French doors, wood floors, taupe wicker chairs and wainscoting - Devon modern with a touch of New England glamour.
Buzzy though the indoor bar is, it's lovely to take drinks out onto the large terrace, where no doubt hotel guests get to enjoy breakfast on a sunny morning. The rooms I saw were smart and contemporary, many with decks overlooking the sea and some with free-standing tubs.
The only downside is the steep room rates and, for some, the lack of a lift - there's a long spiral staircase to climb to the rooms, which may be a problem for small children and dogs, all of whom are welcome.
By contrast, the food is very well-priced, with mains at less than £20. Signature dishes from a menu created by Mitch Tonks, who is to Devon what Rick Stein is to Cornwall, include half a lobster tossed with linguini (too much tomato, not quite enough crustacean) and a truly yummy veal chop. Starters of Salcombe crab crostini and the small sweet shrimp on toast which is one of Tonks's own signature dishes were both standouts. The chips were strangely dry and desserts could use some work, but the wine list offers plenty of variety and many dessert wines and digestifs are a steal.
It's doubtless possible to eat more sophisticated fare on the Devon coast, but South Sands has no aspirations towards fine dining, rather the desire to give as many people as possible a jolly good time over decent food and wine at a fair price. And on that basis, they're performing a fine public service.
Cost standard double room: £££
Services near beach, hotel restaurant, hotel bar, pets accepted, water sports
Email
Add to your Pocket Guide
