The Ghan: taking the train in style across Australia
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Usually when you fall asleep in the desert and wake up in a forest, something’s gone drastically amiss on the taxi-ride home from the bar. But taking The Ghan across Australia whisks you off an adventure you’ll definitely not forget, even if they do ply you with all the gorgeous Riesling you can drink over your gourmet dinner, before packing you off to bed.
Paul and I were lucky enough to travel Platinum class on the recently constructed AustralAsia Railway, from Alice Springs right up to Darwin. This 1,420km of track was completed in early 2004, enabling this legendary train to make its long-awaited transcontinental journey. Prior to that, guests could only travel up from Adelaide, through the Flinders Ranges, as far as Alice Springs. All in all, The Ghan now travels some 2,979 km; that’s a lot of reading time, watching the world scroll past, and pretending you’re Harry and Hermione, heading off to Hogwarts.
Throughout our journey we watched the scenery change from the bright red desert sands and spinifex plains of the outback, right through to the lush, tropical greenery of the Top End. A few hours in Katherine on the way up to Darwin the next day, meant Paul and I also got to experience the incredible beauty of Katherine Gorge, thanks to Nitmiluk Tours. This tour company is a wholly owned and operated indigenous operator, and they know every inch of the 292,800 hectare National Park, owned by the Jawoyn Aboriginal people. We took a two gorge cruise with our fellow Ghan passengers and learned all about the area, with its sheer rock surfaces, crocodile population and ancient Aboriginal art still visible on the cliff faces.
Back on the train and it was time for yet another three course meal, prepared by the three on-board chefs. You’d be hard pressed to find staff like those on The Ghan on any other mode of transport – these guys and girls were fixed with permanent heartfelt smiles and looked as though they truly love their jobs. And who wouldn’t, travelling along with a new set of friends every couple of days, sleeping in a room with an ever-changing view?
Our Premium cabin had two pull-down single beds, prepared for us at night as we ate dinner in the dining carriage, a fold down writing desk, two comfy seats and plenty of storage space (though your main bags are stowed in another carriage as you travel). The bathroom was bigger than one you’d find on an aeroplane, with its own spacious shower and toilet with intense sucking-power (we all secretly love those, admit it!) Towels and shower gel/shampoo are all provided and if you fail to remember your toothbrush/sunscreen/vanity kit, all you have to do is ask. The staff have a supply of spares, so you’ll never go without an essential item.
There are cheaper ways to travel on The Ghan. The Red Sleeper class offers smaller sleeping quarters and its own dining carriage, minus the white tablecloths and waiter service of course. But for a spot of luxury as you wind your way through beautiful Australia, it’s well worth splashing the extra cash to do it in style. As the train chug-chugs you along, you’ll sleep like a baby, and wake up somewhat fresher for your lengthy journey.
To book your trip and find out more, click here
Did you read about bread rolls and rocks in Uluru, and how we slept in an orphanage on a motorway?
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