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Eddie Gilbert’s in Ramsgate, Kent – a Triumphic Trio of Fishmonger, Chip Shop and Gourmet Restaurant

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recommended by Rupert Parker
Eddie Gilbert’s in Ramsgate, Kent – a Triumphic Trio of Fishmonger, Chip Shop and Gourmet Restaurant
  Eddie Gilbert’s

Sourcing the finest quality fish, as locally as possible, Ramsgate establishment Eddie Gilbert’s is a great success at every level, particularly the standard of cooking in the upstairs gourmet restaurant.

We’re all familiar with the fish and chip shops that offer eat-in facilities but usually they’re primitive affairs with Formica tabletops and utilitarian seating, an afterthought for those customers who don’t fancy a takeaway.  Eddie Gilbert’s breaks the mould by being both fishmonger and chip shop downstairs with a light and airy seafood bistro above.

This is a winning formula and a large part of the secret is that they buy fish direct from the local fishing boats every day and source local potatoes and vegetables. Beer comes from Gadds, a Ramsgate brewery and they also offer a choice of Kent wines. The restaurant can take up to 50 people but on an autumn Wednesday night it was packed with diners tucking into giant sea food platters.
 
To get the taste buds going I started with a selection of native and rock Oysters knowing that the owner, Jonny Dunhill, had been an Oyster supplier in London before upping sticks to Ramsgate.  Now I usually prefer my bivalves au naturel, but chef Craig Mather had the bright idea of adding a touch of Wasabi, Lime and Pickled Ginger and the added piquancy was stunning. They were so good that I ordered more.

Now I should have ordered the signature dish of crispy smoked Eel soldiers and soft boiled Duck egg but I fancied the King Scallops.  Pan fried to perfection, they came artfully spaced between portions of Carrot and Cardamom Puree, adjacent to soused Carrots, and topped with Coriander Cress.  I should mention that I did sneak some of the Eel soldiers from my neighbour and dipped them into the top of the Duck egg and they were superb, the smokiness perfectly offset by the creaminess of the yolk

Whole grilled local Ramsgate Lobster was on offer, served with chips and salad, but a glance at adjacent tables showed it was huge and I'd already stuffed myself with Oysters. Instead, I went for roasted Turbot, served on a bed of Spinach, topped with sautéed Girolle Mushrooms.  As you’d expect, the fish was excellent and the Basil and Pine Nut Polenta on the side was a tasty complement.

Staying with the theme of localness, I finished with a selection of British Cheeses served with Grapes and Celery and was not disappointed.  The deserts looked particularly good and I did get a taste of the Gadds Black Pearl Stout and Chocolate ice Cream to remind me of what I was missing. I'll have to go back...

This was an excellent meal with cooking of the highest order and understated but attentive service.  It’s also excellent value for money.  The restaurant’s only been open a year but I advise you to get there fast – you won’t regret it.

King Street 32, Ramsgate, UK

Contact tel: 01843 852123

Cost 2 course a la carte: £10 - £25 per person, 3 course a la carte: £10 - £25 per person

Useful links
Eddie Gilbert's
Gadds from the Ramsgate Brewery