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Curry Definitely off the Menu at the Ambrette Indian Restaurant in Margate, Kent, UK

recommended by Rupert Parker

Curry Definitely off the Menu at the Ambrette Indian Restaurant in Margate, Kent, UK

Gourmet Indian food is a rare beast on Britain’s suburban high streets, but the Ambrette restaurant, housed in a former pub, in Margate, Kent, delivers the goods.

Margate is undergoing something of a renaissance with the recent revitalization of the old town and the forthcoming opening of the Turner Contemporary Arts Centre on the seafront. There’s even a plan to restore Dreamland, the 20's amusement park, and trendy shops are springing up all over. The Ambrette restaurant was once the Indian Princess and, before that, the George Hotel, dating from the 18th century, but there’s nothing old fashioned about the food.

Young chef Dev Biswal grew up in Calcutta, started cooking in Mumbai and refined his skills in Dubai and London before pitching up in Margate. He thinks that much of Indian food served in the UK is stuck in a 1940s time bubble, a legacy of the Bangladeshi pioneers of Asian Food. He’s on a mission to transform the Indian dining scene so he refuses to serve curry, and there’s pork on the menu. The short, eclectic menu changes daily and often features his signature dish of fillet of fresh water Nile Perch, pan-fried with Peppers, Coriander, Fenugreek and Carom seeds, as well as locally sourced game and seafood.

He’s also keen on getting away from Lager and pairing wine with his food. “The reason why wines do not go well with a curry from your local take-away is because most of these curries are highly flavoured with cooked Onion and Garlic” which contain Sulphur compounds which clash harshly with the taste molecules present in most wines.”

To prove that you can match wines with Indian cuisine, on special occasions, the Ambrette offers a six-course tasting menu, with matched wines chosen by Chix Chandaria from Hix & Buck, for the bargain price of £49.99. I decided to put it to the test.

First up was fresh Ramsgate Crab meat, gently spiced, then stir fried and served with an aromatic Crab Jus flavoured with Mustard Oil, Cinnamon and Cardamom. The fruity Mas d’Intras Isidora Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardèche Rosé worked well with this.

Next were succulent belly ribs of Kentish Pork flavoured with Fennel and Sesame seeds matched with a 2007 Sauvignon Blanc from La Maison des Maines Mainart. Its crisp dry fruit balanced the sweetness of the sauce.

This was followed by tender charcoal-roasted brochettes of Kentish Lamb, marinated in pickles, and served on a mildly spiced bed of Sweet Potatoes. A deep purple peppery 2007 Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardèche Syrah was the perfect accompaniment for the red meat.

There was still more to come. Tender Chicken breast, marinated in Coriander, Mint and green herbs, was slow roasted in the Tandoor and served with a 2008 La Maison des Maines Mainart 538 Chardonnay/Sauvignon, bursting with Citrus and Gooseberry flavours.

Finally there was breast of Gressingham Duck, pan grilled with spices and accompanied by a sauce of fresh Oranges, Fennel and Cinnamon. Of course this needed a hearty red and the 2007 Mas d’Intras Cuvée Ferdinand Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardèche, matured in Oak for 12 months, did the trick.

Visibly wilting, there was just enough room to pack in a desert of hand crafted Chocolate silk with home made Coconut Ice Cream and wash it down with a glass of sparkling XO Methode Traditionelle from J&L Charlemagne. I think I had to admit that Dev had not only proved his point that wine works well with Indian food, but also had delivered a fantastic meal. He believes that his mission is to combat “flavour fatigue” by create flavour affinities with different textures and tastes and who's to disagree?